Portable 120V to 240V Converter; or How to Fast Charge at Your In-Law’s House | 19mm Momentary Push Button

I recall a battery add from the 70’s or 80’s that displayed the power of a couple of 1.5V cells powering an electromagnet that could lift a car.

I have to say up front that I’ve never been a fan of EVFs. While they do permit much more information overlay than conventional optical viewfinders, I’ve always felt that EVFs’ limitations have outweighed their advantages. In particular, EVFs usually have limited sensitivity and dynamic range, not to mention low refresh rates and poor resolution when compared with the view through a conventional optical viewfinder.

These were obviously mistakes. I would never intentionally come into contact with HT from the anode cap.

Over and over again, I have heard HVACR technicians and electricians quote rules of thumb regarding wiring sizing, and I have witnessed and participated in many heated debates on the topic.

After which he had an excuse to take the afternoon off and he repaired to the pub for “a feed” of Guinness!

Creating a PCB heat bed isn’t an art – it’s a science. There are equations and variables to calculate, possibly some empirical measurements by measuring the resistance of a trace, but Ohm’s Law is a law for a reason. If you do things right, you can make a PCB heat bed perfectly suited for the task. You can even design in safety features like overcurrent protection and fuses. It can’t be that hard. After all, your house is full of devices that are plugged into the wall.

The more you think about this the more you realise that there is actually no truly bomb proof way to organise it but the methods now being implemented are probably about the safest way for most situations.

Remembers me of an incident when my mother asked me to fix the extension cord for the electric lawn mower – “please check the cable, the garden worker complained the mower does not work”. I opened the socket type end of the cable, saw a dislodged contact spring and wanted to reseat it. Then I had to feel the other end was still connected to 230VAC mains. It just did not think of thisbefore… But luckily it just stung a little. I pulled the plug and continued my work.

Styling of the Niro is barely distinguishable from the standard car, save the door covering the charge port and subtle teal accents inside and out that indicate to the outside world that this is slightly more eco than everything else. And those eco signifiers tend to be either green or blue, so why not blend them into Nineties-Fantastic Teal?

As always, in terms of refinement, petrol or diesel drivers need to recalibrate their minds, not least because the near silence (bar wind noise) below 2000rpm stands in contrast to the engine noise that intrudes thereafter. At a cruise the peace is notable, while if you push on the arrival of engine noise is a momentary surprise rather than a permanent irritation. A sub-8.0sec 0-62mph time underlines that this is a reasonably pacy hatch too.

The run and start capacitors provide the phase shift for starting torque because their capacitances add up when wired in parallel. In fact, both capacitors are wired in series with the start winding and in parallel with the run winding.

You can use mains voltage if it involves already approved/CE-licensed parts that are simply wired together such as a power supply to a circuit board, but if you design and build your own part with 120 V inside, it’s on your head when the house burns down.