Portable 120V to 240V Converter; or How to Fast Charge at Your In-Law’s House | Circuit Breaker Parts

Sorry.. gotta disagree here. I’m sure L1 charging can work for some people who don’t drive very much. But people who buy an EV thinking they are going to be able to do everything using the 120V EVSE are going to wind up ver dissatisfied with their EV owning experience. When you get buy a 240V unit from clipper creek for $300 these days, plus maybe a few hundred for electrical work, there is really no excuse not to get this done in most cases.

We use cookies to give you the best possible experience on our website. For more details including how to change your cookie settings, please read our Cookie Policy.

Before we dig in, know that the Amazon Smart Plug is designed for use with a 100-120 volt three prong system so it’s a North American product only.

Yeah or you could just make an idiot-proof low-voltage one, probably cheaper and easier. That’s the argument, low voltage is much easier to do safely.

The first time I hooked up to HT it was a 32+ inch screen (about 27KV) and it launched me into the air and I landed 4 meters behind where I was sitting. The second time was a 27 inch (about 24KV) and there was a wall about two meters behind me and I was slammed into that so hard that I was bruised in many places.

Rather than rest after establishing products in every major sector of the interchangeable lens digital camera market — APS-C SLR, full-frame SLR, and most recently single-lens direct view — Sony is boldly striking out to create yet another category with the launch of its very first translucent mirror cameras. The main goal of the new design: achieving unprecedented autofocus and capture speed from an APS-C sensor, interchangeable-lens, consumer digital camera. Comprising a new SLT series, the Sony Alpha SLT-A33, A55, and A55V are closely related cameras sharing the same basic design, with only a few internal features as major differences.

My 2 stage 23 x 24″ CASE snowblower I home-made converted to a 3 hp extension cord electric (240 on the Tesla outlet – peaks at 35 amperes and 7 1/2 hp). I was worried that I had underpowered it but last March when all the gas blowers on the street were stalling on heavy water laden snow, mine just kept barreling down the sidewalk.

The issue with using NEMA 5-15 receptacles is that people will use them stupidly. They will attach extension cords without knowing to properly check them for heat build up at the outlet and along their length. It just encourages bad use, modern EVSEs with heat sensors in the plug won’t work appropriately with an extension cord.

You are right, FR-4 has a glass transition temperature of around 120°C, so if you heat up your traces above that, and take into account the mechanical stress from expanding copper traces, delamination is something waiting to happen sooner or later (especially if you design corners in your traces). Add to that the fact that you usually don’t measure the temperature directly on the traces to regulate input power, you could go way beyond 120°C in your copper traces. I don’t think a lot of DIY guys actually know that there would be high-TG materials on the market better suited for PCB based heater applications…

All of this, if you suppose that you are taking a full hand of cable. Got shocked a few times with AC (and DC as well) and since I was just thouching, not handling, I had no trouble to get away with it (just swearing A LOT and throwing my screwdriver through the room).

And it’s is a bad advice from ESD protection standpoint as well because nothing else, like your table where the new components are laying on, isn’t grounded so you’ve just created a potential well.

What’s the big deal? The heated rock for my herpetarium plugs directly into the wall. Nice cozy and warm. No shocks for me, no limp lizard either.