Power goes out when pc turns on – Components | 19mm Momentary Push Button

Such an awful practice and terrible idea. I have an EV and would never do this (me being an EE). I decided to make this correctly and I installed dedicated #10 cable from the auxiliary power distribution box to the EV charger as a permanent connection, no plugs no unsafe contraptions, and following all the NEC codes. Those cables you used and the crimp terminals aren’t suited for the current rate. Check them if you don’t believe me. Crimp pressure plug in terminals are rated for around 6 amps of continuous AC current and I hope you used at least 600 A.C. volts insulation cable… Bad, bad idea.

Of course, after buying a 1000W PSU, I kept getting intermittent shutdowns and freezes after 30-60 minutes of gameplay or CAD work, despite remaining perfectly stable while mining for days at a time. The GTX670 has no backplate and last year a fan screw vibrated loose and fell on top of it while everything was running. The motherboard was toast so I ungraded it and the CPU (AMD FX9590), but the GTX670 itself seemed okay. Apparently not.

But at the end of the training it says “you can ignore all of this if you are troubleshooting”. If you are afraid of live circuits, stay at your desk where it is safe…

So it’s – what happens to this board at 110 Volts and what are the consequences and the same for 240V, 1000V 10000V, ALL of these voltages. So it’s about what voltage will cause consequences and NOT what it is going to do at a specific assumed voltage, or more to the point ** where are the first points of failure with increasing voltage and what are the consequences.

The layout looks good too, but I’d recommend for version 2 that you increase the creepage distance between the HV and LV – particularly with regards to the LED. My own habit is to place an actual “border line” on the silkscreen. Nothing is allowed to span that line except for galvanically isolated components (isolated power supplies, opto-isolators, etc).

The owners manual for the Clipper Creek unit shown in the picture specifically says not to wrap the cord tightly like shown in the picture. If you do the cord WILL get hot internally even when properly wired during a long charge. It needs that open space to vent heat. The cord will stay cool if coiled properly. Whenever people not knowing otherwise coil the public chargers like that I will loosen them up.

Actually, while HDR is the more glamorous feature, Sony’s Dynamic Range Optimizer (DRO for short) deserves some attention, as I found myself relying more on it than HDR to manage tonal extremes. Most every camera company has some sort of an exposure mode that adjusts exposure and/or contrast to help avoid blowing highlights or plugging shadows. After several years of tweaking, I think that images shot with Sony’s DRO now look better than most. DRO defaults to the Auto setting on the Sony A33 and A55, and most times I checked, I liked the tonal balance of photos shot that way over that those with DRO turned off.

For a TRIAC I bend the middle pin forward 0.1″ – 0.2″, this is often done commercially and you can even buy them pre-bent.

The number on this photo is a little misleading. 337 mpg! I think I shot it after having the car for about ten minutes, nearly all of it without using the petrol engine. Still, it’s a nice little tease for any friends riding along.

Kapton tape is nice but I know it peels and needs replacing eventually. You wouldn’t legally be able to sell something using just tape as a mains insulator. Glass can break. It’s a small chance, but risk should be proportionate to the danger when things fail. You might sometimes have metal screws or whatnot on the bed if you’re assembling a couple of pieces there. Best not to mess.

Yes you can use those high voltage safely, BUT your typical DIY people don’t even bother to read or understand datasheets. These people need the proper training, but aren’t likely to be bother to go beyond the typical monkey see monkey do watching youtube and think they know it all. I have seen enough of bad layouts of the average projects that doesn’t even understand that the creepage space between the primary and secondary side of an optoisolator aren’t meant to be for routing!

They do not connect 240VAC , they connect 24v DC with a 15A source. Remeber AC is a sine signal, you don’t want a signal that turn off 60 or 50 times per second.