Power goes out when pc turns on – Components | Circuit Breaker Parts

And for the record, If I’m able to, I will breastfeed my children, because nutritional value, probiotics, and antibodies.

Of course, after buying a 1000W PSU, I kept getting intermittent shutdowns and freezes after 30-60 minutes of gameplay or CAD work, despite remaining perfectly stable while mining for days at a time. The GTX670 has no backplate and last year a fan screw vibrated loose and fell on top of it while everything was running. The motherboard was toast so I ungraded it and the CPU (AMD FX9590), but the GTX670 itself seemed okay. Apparently not.

Life gets in the way. No matter how much you plan, there will always be circumstances that, at the very least, interfere with that plan — if not throw it completely out the window.

I would build a custom circuit board, and not use soldermask on the heater side. Instead, I would bond a sheet of pyralux on the face of the heater. Pyralux is Kapton with integrated thermoset acrylic adhesive on one or both sides. 2 mil Kapton has a voltage standoff of 10KV, so electric shock would not be a problem. Bonding can be done in a standard oven using metal plates and clamps (to apply pressure), or with a special heated press.

Yeah, the US connector system is a mess. I just installed a system that’s supposed to use a NEMA 6-20 plug, but the building services people installed a NEMA L6-20 receptacle (locking version). Same electrical specs, but they don’t mate. Back to lopping off the plug and wiring my own g-d connector… Arrgh.

Sometimes you’ll get a zap across your hand, maybe even a horrible burn. But I like those odds compared to you touched live and it routed current through your heart!

1. He mentioned grease – higher current SSRs are sweat soldered to the base plate, they don’t use thermal grease.

You probably knew that, so I apologize if I’m going over familiar ground, but for others, it’s worth mentioning.

I think it’s just fine and nice to see someone put care and thinking into this sort of thing in an unusual way for HaD. Usually people are either completely terrified or entirely cavalier about mains voltage in projects on here when all that is required is some respect and thoughtfulness like you have quite obviously displayed. Next you can add a power meter so you know how many quarters to give your friend

And because what you need is power and not current, and because of voltage drop in your wiring, the current is slightly more than twice. If you have a load of 1200 Watts, so 10 A in 120VAC and 5 A in 240 VAC. With wire around 8 ohms/km (roughly wire of 2.5mm² section or 14 AWG), you get a voltage drop of 8 Volts in one case, 4 Volts in the other. So 6.67% of your main voltage vs. 1.67% of your main voltage. Already 5% of efficiency loss in your system… But it’s even worst because in this case you don’t get 1200 Watts at your load, only 1120 Watts ((120-8) * 10) and 1180 Watts ((240-4) * 5) To get your 1200 Watts at your charge, you need 10.77 Amps and 5.08 Amps. So you get a overall efficiency of 92.8 % at 120 VAC (1200 / (10.77*120)) and 98.3 % at 240 VAC. (5.5% of efficiency difference).

Yup. Isolation is important as other commenters have noted. I’d compare electric heating pad design too, and probably require a door interlock to cut power to the bed when the door is open (enclosed only). A simpler way may be to simply put a transformer or “dirty” switcher under the bed and not put the higher voltage into the build plate in the first place. Use either a digital on/off for the switcher or a ZVS SSR for the transformer high side control. Would a 1/100 or 1/120 of a second minimum duty cycle and lsb affect the temperature that much, given the thermal mass of the system?

Oversizing switching gear is good to some point but instead of relay withstanding surges I would prefer breaker that would protect everything.