Exactly, sometimes less of a compact form factor makes a better product overall. Snubber circuit is a nice touch tough.
This. An isolation transformer can be a very useful thing, but also very dangerous. If you touch ONE end no problem, but if you touch both ends you will get cooked and the RCD will NOT trip. Or more directly: An isolation transformer does NOT allow you to switch off your brain! And NEVER connect a scope to such a transformer.
This is overkill. You don’t need a safety-ECU for this. It is much safer to use the thermal fuse(s) you mention and they are sufficient. If the safety can done without CPU intervention, then do it. 2mil Kapton may have this standoff voltage, but it is scratched easily. I would bond the (high-tg FR4) PCB heater with silicone to a glassplate (pyrex or something).
For a TRIAC I bend the middle pin forward 0.1″ – 0.2″, this is often done commercially and you can even buy them pre-bent.
Translucent (pellicle) mirror. Undoubtedly the biggest story of the Sony SLT-series cameras is their use of a translucent mirror. Also known as pellicle mirror, this works by allowing most light to pass through to the imaging surface beneath, while a small portion is reflected for other purposes. Sony is not the first camera manufacturer to use a translucent mirror in an SLR-style camera, with the manual focus Canon Pellix film camera from 1965 taking that credit. The Pellix was followed by a handful of other pellicle mirror-based SLRs from Canon, Nikon, and Mamiya, largely designed for professional photographers, and manufactured in very limited production runs. It wasn’t until 1989′s Canon EOS RT that the first autofocus pellicle camera was released, followed by the EOS-1N RS in 1995. Fifteen years later, Sony has become the first company to resurrect the pellicle mirror for use in an interchangeable lens digital camera.
I’m wondering why nobody is simply rectifying a 120vac input for dc wiring the secondary coil? It means you don’t have to swap the coil location or use a dc power supply. I have a trans with a secondary resistance of 82ohms. Putting 120vdc through it would be about 175watts (assuming I do a good job of determining wire size and 1.46amps is ok)
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I also own an electric kiln designed to heat and temper glass so a page can be taken from that design. I haven’t made the effort to investigate the heating elements as of yet.
I think a lot of the negativity is par for the course on Hackaday when dealing with HV (or other areas with safety concerns) projects. I got my share of the same thing with my “Quick 220 clone” project. Such projects should garner a healthy dose of paranoia, but I think where it goes wrong is when that converts into unfriendly skepticism – that somehow it’s impossible for an amateur working alone to build something that would pass muster with UL or CE.
Many lawmakers see this legislation as increasingly more crucial in the wake of Attorney General Jeff Sessions’s departure and Trump’s ongoing critiques of the Mueller probe.
How are you implementing the power calculations, out of curiosity? (I have designed a couple of AC power meters before, so it’s somewhat of an interest of mine)
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