Power Management, Chapter 8: Power Management ICs | 220v Contactor Relay

My own maxim is that just because something can be – and perhaps often is – done poorly or hazardously does not at all preclude any possibility that it can be done properly and safely.

Ok let’s assume you have a coated PCB that that doesn’t promote condensation, now unless you’re immersing your PCB in Argon, the flash over voltage is a function of the air it’s in. Unfortunately this calculation has many variables such as impurities in the air like smog (which cause condensation), altitude (which dictates how much moisture the air can carry), distance between traces (of course) and several others.

So here follows the first in a series on how to approach electronic devices containing high voltages, and live to tell the tale. By “high voltages” we mean anything up to mains voltages, and those directly derived from them such as the few hundred volts rectified DC you’ll find in a switch-mode PSU. For multi-kilovolt EHT you’ll have to wait for another article, because that is an entire subject in itself. We’ll mention these higher voltages in passing, but their detail is best left for a Hackaday colleague with more pertinent experience.

Yeah, I screwed up this one. I was looking for the ON State voltage drop, but they were giving the power, which I multiplied by the current giving the wrong value above.http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/BT137-600E.pdf this shows about 3-6W @ 5A. I was trying to compare both relay and triac at 5A, significantly below their rated max load. It looks like the affirmation still stands, the triac will dissipate more, but now the number is not even double.

They’ve lifted 200kg so far, and it looks like a pretty cool addition to a shop already packed with other builds, like their MOT spot welder and a propane tank sandblaster.

The likely hazards identified, what are you about to do with it? Are you just opening it for curiosity’s sake, are you going to work on the high voltage circuit to fix it, or is it surplus that you’re scavenging for parts? If you’re just curious or simply scavenging parts, you may not have to increase the risk by applying power in the first place, so what other risks might remain?

I’m not going to argue with your statement, it just seems funny to me that someone would tens of thousands on an Electric Car but still be using a Gas lawnmower!:)

Some adjustment necessary. This shot turned out well at -0.3 EV, but a lot of my shots under bright conditions could really have used -0.7 EV of adjustment.

Auto High Dynamic Range mode captures numerous images with varied exposure, then creates a single image with much greater dynamic range than would otherwise be possible.

At least you thought about fuse and earth ground wire. Hopefully you also kept the thermal fuse of the iron – normally they have one to prevent fire in case of a welded thermostat contact (or short circuit in the solid state relay). And hopefully you kept or built a good case for all this (the open part of the iron).

I have pulled this hack in a pinch with specific pieces of test equipment, etc. (usually large power supplies) in non-residential settings but instead of having a snazzy box I would use one extension cord and my trusty Fluke and sort it out. In that application, the circuits were almost always dedicated (or near-dedicated), but in a residential setting, there are still many circuits that are rarely loaded much if at all, and I see this as working perfectly fine for those times.

Maximum video length is 29 minutes or two gigabytes per clip, whichever limit is reached first — although if SteadyShot is enabled, this limit is slashed to just nine minutes per clip, likely due to sensor heating issues when using the sensor-shift stabilization mechanism. Full HD videos are recorded using 17Mbps AVCHD compression, while the lower resolutions are saved with MP4 compression, at a bitrate of 12Mbps for 1,440 x 1,080 pixel video, or 3Mbps for VGA video. Movie capture is started and stopped with a dedicated Movie button located just to the right of the electronic viewfinder, within easy reach of a thumb press.