Resident Evil 2 Remake releases January 25th: watch the first trailer | 220v Contactor Relay

I have one SSR marked Fotek with 40A on the label and a 16A device inside. I feel a bit sorry for the real Fotek if this is the case.

Terms of Use Privacy Policy Security Measures IP Policy Cookie Policy About The Translation hkweb10.globalsources.com

If you look at the Fotek datasheet for that relay, you’ll find that the specified heatsink does not resemble a piece of galvanized steel sheet metal, horizontally mounted with a half inch air gap under it, and set on top of a heater.

The Sony A33 adopts a newly developed phase-detection autofocus sensor and lens module with 15 points, of which three are cross-type. AF points can be selected automatically or manually, and both predictive control (tracking) and face detection are included, although the cameras can only focus on detected faces if they fall under a phase detection point. Autofocus working range is -1 EV to +18 EV (at ISO 100 equivalent), and there’s no dedicated AF assist lamp, with the A33 relying on low-power bursts of internal flash or an external strobe’s assist lamp for focusing in low light.

Alpha mount. The Sony A33 accepts Alpha-mount lenses from Sony, and is backward-compatible with older Minolta or Konica Minolta A-mount lenses, allowing use of a huge range of both current and historic glass. Compared to single-lens direct view cameras — even Sony’s own NEX series — this will likely make the Sony A33 a much more attractive proposition for existing Alpha or A-mount photographers. While Alpha-mount lenses can be used on NEX cameras through a mount adapter, they lose their in-body SteadyShot capabilities, whereas the Sony A33 retains this capability with the same lenses. (In an earlier version of this review, we also called attention to the inability to autofocus using Alpha-mount lenses on NEX-series bodies, but this looks to be negated by a forthcoming update for the LA-EA1 mount adapter that will enable Alpha-mount AF on NEX bodies. We’ve not yet tested this update, and hence can’t comment on how NEX and SLT-series cameras will compare in this area.) Sony rates the SteadyShot sensor shift mechanism in the Alpha A33 for between 2.5 and four stops of correction.

the scariest thing I have ever seen/been around was in a fuel terminal at an oil refinery. I couldn’t figure out why we had printers, plotters, Apple II’s and monitors dropping like flies.

However, experience tells me that this very minimal standard is not good practice. Modelling for 240V will only cause problems with the first over voltage transient or spike.

VAC says: “The two 120V legs are *in phase* with each other.” Of course they are not. *by definition* if they were in phase there would be no voltage difference between them. The two 120V legs are 180 degrees different from each other, so the difference between them is 240V. Which is (of course) the supply voltage.

It calls out a MOC3041M on the silkscreening. One can use a MOC3041 of course as they are the same form factor.

Found said bare wires and had the ultimate Homer Simpson moment after separating them (probably when the lights weren’t plugged in), and thought ‘hey wouldn’t it be fun to complete this mains circuit across my body’. I didn’t really check with the lights lit up, but I was having a whale of a time juddering and screaming for a few seconds till somehow I managed to let go of the wires

Haven’t really looked at how the eBay feedback system works these days, but is it still the case that if a buyer gives a seller a negative no matter how well deserved, he can pretty much expect a negative in return?

You don’t need a big contactor to switch 1A at 120v, you can get little “ice cube” relays that switch up to 10A at 120V and they have a plug-in base so easy to change out when they inevitably fail. Most of them, in new perfect condition, make barely any sound. Nothing compared to the noise of fans and stepper motors. The only issue I can see is running AC mains voltage through wiring that is going in parallel with low voltage. Would need to use thick jacketed, shielded cable to prevent too much EMI. Maybe it’d be better suited using a separate transformer just for the heated bed, rectified/regulated but still a higher voltage for better efficiency. Speaking just from my experience as an electrician and hobbyist level electronics/3d printing experience.