River Bank is the stackable battery for everything you power, everywhere you go | Circuit Breaker Parts

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You really should drop the 110/240 volts statements and use 120/240 volts for residential installs. I don’t think 110 volts has been used since Thomas Edison.

It’s a 750W pump. Since it is running on 220V, steady current would be ~3.5A, so inrush current could be as high as 20A, according to some sites I’ve just found. Doesn’t sound awesome.

Leaving their advanced capabilities aside, the Sony A33 and A55 are also remarkably compact cameras. As we’ve noted elsewhere, because the mirror in the camera isn’t used to form a viewfinder image, it can be mounted at a steeper angle than normal, removing some thickness from the camera body as a whole (the flange-sensor distance must obviously remain the same, but there’s more room in the body for the shake-reduction system and other electronics), and the space normally required for the mirror drive system could be trimmed from the sides. As a result, the body is noticeably compact.

It’s the peak rating. For constant loads, or anything that could be temporarily constant you need to de-rate.

The plug-in Kia Niro has an 8.9 kWh battery (vs. 1.6 kWh in the regular car). You can quickly estimate the amount of kWh you used in the week as long as the battery was fully drained every time you plugged the car in (it’s fully drained if the gasoline engine kicks in) and you know how many times you charged the car.

No, Britlish, which is some modern bastard concoction. It’s well known that we in the colonies (American, that is) speak English that’s closer to the “original” than what the British warp the air with.

I’d like to say that I’m also grateful to TJ and other contributors for their contributions, inputs and replies, I did learn things and this increased my awareness of potential hazards. [I’m basically a SW developer doing 3.3V electronics, so any insight on mains operations from those who have experience is welcome.] Even though there may be some unwarranted background noise, the discussion is interesting, and dealing with mains surely is worth a few questions. Not knowing is not a problem, not wanting to learn or daring to ask is…

In the case of an opto-couple my ‘rule of thumb’ is for the min to be the distance between the pads on left and right rows of pins. ie nothing under the opto at all apart from the pads connecting the pins.

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It also doesn’t hurt to spend a bit more. I found a 40A SSR, well-known Japanese brand, from a reputable distributor, for $30. That said, I might easily have made this same mistake; thankfully I won’t have to learn the hard way (this time!).

So a 20 amp breaker is designed to take the load shift on startup. A 15 amp breaker will carry the nominal load, but that surge on startup will kick it every time. In the days before switching supplies the input voltage would vary from 108 to 115VAC where I did work. This occasionally caused breaker trips on the unprepared circuit. I learned to spec high enough to minimize that issue and keep a safety factor in play.