Samsung’s 2018 TVs now support FreeSync for smoother gaming | 19mm Momentary Push Button

Meh, just use a relay for your “PWM”. It’s much easier, and you have a huge low pass filter. You can easily go up to a few Hz switching with a good realy. Use a solid state relay and it’s even better (you might break your mechanical relay after prolonged use).

You can burn your house down in many different ways. Knocking over a poorly placed candle, or dropping a napkin on the electric stove are much more likely than a fault in the wiring, and the insurance company will pay out just the same. They would have to show that you were grossly negligent.

They make silicone pad heaters for automotive stuff like someone else mentioned, that would probably work too.

120V comes with a nice plug (NEMA 5-15P) that is smaller than EU’s and you can fit more of them onto a power bar. There are always two outlets in a wall receptacle. Unless you have wet fingers, 120V won’t kill you (usually). Ask most kids that stuck things in the wall outlet and have lived to tell their tale… it is very common. Aluminum wire for branch circuits in homes was all but banned three decades ago or more. I think you have embellished things a bit. Look up the history why Europe went 50 Hz, instead of a higher frequency like 60 Hz… your lower 50 Hz results in heavier transformer cores. Find out why Japan is 100V, and the country is split 50/60 Hz! There is always politics, and not pure technical reasons.

Try it- measure the voltage between the neutral and earth ground pin on a North American outlet. If the voltage is near zero, then you have a bonded ground system. If you see 1V or more, then you either do not have a bonded ground, or you have poor / undersized / or very long wire runs between the breaker box and the point you’re measuring.

Redpepper’s video description boasts: “While only a prototype, the fastest There’s Waldo has pointed out a match has been 4.45 seconds which is better than most 5 year olds.” If this is a competition, we really can’t win against the machines.

I wrote a whole blog post dedicated to this topic, titled Hot Dimmer Switches. Check out that post for more info on this topic. If I were to write up a problem with an overloaded dimmer switch, my report comment would say something like this:

As an engineer over 20 years ago I coined the term Beancounter Engineering this kind of stuff where some Idiot MBA sets the specs based on saving a few pennies rather than a Electrical Engineer that understands basic (and complex) science. If you are too damned stupid to understand the basic science behind Global Warming you have no business being an engineer or telling engineers what to do

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You can also see the top of the mechanism for the tilt / swivel LCD panel, peeking out on either side of the electronic viewfinder. The viewfinder itself projects quite a bit from the rear of the camera, a decision that was apparently necessitated by the tight packaging of components in front, including the AF module, popup flash, hot shoe, and microphones.

Yeah just what we need – another dopey ‘standard’. Putting stuff in right and using proper equipment is and has always been the solution.

Pools have come a long way. It used to be you had a pump and if you were lucky it had a mechanical timer switch on it. That was it. Now you have digital controllers and spa jets and heaters. You can even get them that connect to your home automation system. If your pool isn’t new enough to do that already, you can get a range of add-on accessories. For a price. [Rob] paid $500 to get a remote for his pool. It wasn’t even WiFi, just a simple RF remote. In 3 years, the transmitter had burned out ($300 to replace) and he decided he had enough. For $20, [Rob] added MQTT control and monitoring to his pool using an ESP8266. You can see the video description of the project below.