Samsung’s 2018 TVs now support FreeSync for smoother gaming | Circuit Breaker Parts

Actually, while HDR is the more glamorous feature, Sony’s Dynamic Range Optimizer (DRO for short) deserves some attention, as I found myself relying more on it than HDR to manage tonal extremes. Most every camera company has some sort of an exposure mode that adjusts exposure and/or contrast to help avoid blowing highlights or plugging shadows. After several years of tweaking, I think that images shot with Sony’s DRO now look better than most. DRO defaults to the Auto setting on the Sony A33 and A55, and most times I checked, I liked the tonal balance of photos shot that way over that those with DRO turned off.

You completely missed the point. The safety regulatory doesn’t change regardless of the *perception* or the *knowledge* of the person using it. If you are selling a product or publishing a design, you may ended up being liable for the end users. Even if you are the person that design and build your own stuff, plugging in something not certified pretty much voids your home insurance if it happens to be the cause of a fire etc. On the other hand if you are playing with ELV from UL etc approved/certified supplies, you are covered.

For maximum resolution and shooting speed, plus built-in GPS, choose the Sony A55. Give up a little speed and resolution and drop the GPS, though, and you can save upwards of $200 with the Sony A33.

That’s how you may get some serious, even life-threatening, internal RF burns without noticing anything.

Yes, I know that I’m just offloading my energy use to my residential electric service (which is, around here at least, produced mostly by coal or natural gas). Let’s leave that discussion for somewhere else. The impact at the fuel pump is what matters here. Spending eight dollars or less every week to drive to and from the cube farm is incredibly appealing.

Watch this space, then: this is a super-competitive class that already offers something appealing for every taste. However, the Corolla is both very good and, thanks to its hybrid powertrain and dynamic leaning, different. At the right price and in the right spec, if it meets your priorities it could be exceptional.

I would also use a solid state relay. And I would think about gluing the glass plate with high temp silicone to the PCB. This vastly improves thermal contact and so heat transfer which reduces peak temp and thermal lag in the control loop. Also it prevents exposed live wires even in case the glass breaks.

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It’s neither a sports car nor a hot hatch — it’s just a tall hatchback masquerading as a crossover. It handles a bit better than most commuter appliances, due to the 258 pound battery mounted low in the chassis. Imagine strapping me, Keanu-under-the-bus-in-Speed style, to the undercarriage of a car. That would let the car hug the road a bit more (and seriously wound your favorite bearded auto writer, so let’s keep this hypothetical).

Creating a PCB heat bed isn’t an art – it’s a science. There are equations and variables to calculate, possibly some empirical measurements by measuring the resistance of a trace, but Ohm’s Law is a law for a reason. If you do things right, you can make a PCB heat bed perfectly suited for the task. You can even design in safety features like overcurrent protection and fuses. It can’t be that hard. After all, your house is full of devices that are plugged into the wall.

Yup. That’s how you install an outlet for a big dryer or a welder or something than needs the extra power. Never occurred to me to utilize it for a computer PSU, but I suppose it’s pretty nice when you need to squeeze out every little bit of efficiency.

I forgot to say that 220 volt AC is effectively 310 volts peak, so therefor one could instead use 300 volts DC instead, giving roughly 25% less current to carry in the wires to get the same power in the end.