I’d like to say that if a circuit breaker is X-degrees over ambient, it’s a problem… but there’s just no hard and fast rule for this. I can’t say this.
In some cases, contractors have stated that certain municipalities are requiring that conductors be sized based on the breaker size instead of the MCA. This is not uncommon, but it is usually a matter of a respectful conversation about the above NEC articles. The “authority having jurisdiction” or AHJ is responsible for interpreting the code, and they can make any standard they see fit. While certain local legislation may supersede the NEC with additional regulations, the NEC is a nationally recognized standard throughout the U.S. It is rare that a building department will ignore entire articles of the NEC when it is brought to their attention in a respectful manner.
L2 is absolutely useful in cold climate, specially when you don’t have a heated garage. Because a very minimalistic L1 level won’t be able to charge much while also having to keep the battery at a functional temperature, more less to preheat the car or the battery at optimal temperature.
I learned even more respect for shock hazards on the job one day when I was working for a military contractor. I forgot to turn off the 400VDC B+ supply to a radar driver assembly before I put one hand on the metal chassis and grabbed the fins of a lighthouse tube with the other hand. After that I put my head down on the workbench and had me a rest for a few minutes. Even when you know better, one moment of inattention can be the end.
It’s possible to use solar power to charge an EV, usually via panels mounted to the garage roof, but this can cost upwards of $7,000 per installation. And that doesn’t include having a storage battery installed to capture power during daylight hours for overnight charging, which could double the cost.
Well, once I replaced almost my entire PC ’cause I figured the motherboard was toast only to find out that my PSU died and would not power up my setup.
You could make a multimeter that had an internal switch for volts / amps. But I think electricians wouldn’t trust it. So it’d be a useless feature, as well as, probably, increasing the shunt’s resistance. And be another point of failure somewhere dangerous. Etc! Nobody wants a multimeter that killed their mate.
True, but I have never seen a product use them. They will probably become popular with wifi powered stuff.
Dunning-Kruger effect. It’s impossible to correctly estimate your own stupidity. This is the cause behind half of everything wrong in the world. The other half is psychopaths in positions of power.
Being in the controller business I’ve been presented more than one friend’s design with insufficient cooling. One friend even mounted his SSR to a decent heat sink then mounted the entire assembly inside his housing with no air circulation. His response was “it will work” and he’s had two SSRs fail that I know of. At least in his case, the steel housing kept the “magic smoke” contained!
I wrote a whole blog post dedicated to this topic, titled Hot Dimmer Switches. Check out that post for more info on this topic. If I were to write up a problem with an overloaded dimmer switch, my report comment would say something like this:
So the 12 / 24 V designs aren’t an illusion of safety, they are safer if you accidentally short yourself to them
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