MOVs are rated for specific ac-line operating voltages. Exceeding these limits by applying a sustained abnormal overvoltage condition could result in overheating and damage to the MOV.
Having a ground helps in the case of appliances with metal cases. If the hot wire comes loose and touches in inside of the metal case, it is shorted to ground which will trip a breaker. Otherwise the metal case would become hot which is obviously dangerous. Soil resistivity has nothing to do with it and in fact it would be safer if it wasn’t tied to physical ground, that is just done to save money.
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I can only think of a single instance in the last six months where the HPWC higher charge rate would have made a difference for us, and even then it would have simply made leaving for a long trip slightly more comfortable.
This makes a lot of sense. There are many rather cheap dimmers that can drive a 500W ‘flood’ lamp, so it’s probably better to modify one of theses, and keep it outside the wall socket…
Great reasons to add L2 to your own garage, carport, parking spot: preconditioning vehicle will not reduce your SOC, lower fire risk than overloading an existing 120V circuit, more efficient charging, added resale value to your house, NEMA 14-50 outlet can be used for other things (welder, RV, heater, etc.), two EVs in the same garage, maximize off-peak charging, cool factor, etc.
Once you’ve established these ground rules you can then tailor your approach based on a realistic expectation of the risk involved. This process might seem rather long-winded, but in practice it should only require a moment’s thought. It’s infinitely better to take that moment to think than get an unexpected and possibly lethal high-voltage electric shock.
“To get 120 watts at 12 volts requires thick wires that can handle 10 amps, whereas at 120V, tiny 1A wires will do”.
Not to be argumentative, but please show me a case in which a H/O policy denied coverage for a fire loss because the homeowner used a non-UL listed device. H/O policies are contracts, strictly regulated by each state’s insurance department. The vast majority of H/O policies are “All Risk” based, meaning that you are covered for everything unless there is a specific exclusion for it. I have read many times on this forum and others about H/O policies not covering such claims, please show me ONE that actually is true. There may be one out there, but I have never seen it.
I prefer polycarbonate chassis with see-through lids. That facilitates continuous inspection while the device is in operation. I do agree that an output circuit breaker is not a bad idea. I’m comfortable with relying on the individual breakers on the input circuits combined with the two primary relays, which rather indirectly achieve the same purpose as the trip bar.
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(So your distribution wire can be thinner, and so cheaper, mainly because you have less current, but also because you can have a slightly higher voltage drop with less consequence !)
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