Sega pushes the Mega Drive Mini global release to 2019 | Circuit Breaker Parts

inserts probes into amperge socket sets to VAC and measures 120v wall socket meter goes bang and lets blue smoke out

Aluminum is only used for specific applications like very heavy feeds and they have special connections for it. Wire nuts when properly used are very reliable. Push locks are not all they are cracked to be sometimes too. We do have them, I have installed literally tens of thousands of WAGO connectors. Generally we do not use fuses here, almost all circuit breakers and most new houses now have arc detect breakers too. They are used in industrial situations where you have 100A+ service to a single machine.

The customer wasn’t pleased. I had obviously done something wrong. I showed them the paperwork with the specifications showing that the input to the dimmers was to be 20 amps. They insisted that their electrician knew better than I did.

Step 3: Use the pulse-rating curves (Fig. 2) in the same datasheet to determine pulse capabilities relative to the 40 pulses at the 1000-A requirement.

I’m surprised no one mentioned how Mattias Wandel mounted the SSR on a piece of sheet metal (pretending it will be a heat sink), then mounted it on a water _heater_. I know the heater is insulated so it really shouldn’t be radiating any heat, but wouldn’t it have made more sense to mount the SSR on the cold water inlet pipe? You want to heat the water anyway… When I saw his first video showing off the project I said to myself that’s not going to end well. I’m surprised it lasted this long.

This is overkill. You don’t need a safety-ECU for this. It is much safer to use the thermal fuse(s) you mention and they are sufficient. If the safety can done without CPU intervention, then do it. 2mil Kapton may have this standoff voltage, but it is scratched easily. I would bond the (high-tg FR4) PCB heater with silicone to a glassplate (pyrex or something).

This seems to me that your experiment failed due to thermal failure cased by insufficient cooling and not the part itself..You stated yourself that the part failed due to thermal expansion (insufficient cooling). But it’s still a valid experiment with valid results. And you show that it’s up to the designer (or designers) to design the entire product, which includes sufficient cooling. This is one area where home designs fail – a lot.

A steamy day on the flat roof of a building will let you feel how many inches the 480 can sting your fingers from also.

I forgot to say that 220 volt AC is effectively 310 volts peak, so therefor one could instead use 300 volts DC instead, giving roughly 25% less current to carry in the wires to get the same power in the end.

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Pedantic FWIW: Afghanistan and North Korea and some banana nations use 110V. USA uses 120V/240V. Japan is the oddball, using 100V. Annoying because you can’t draw more than 1 kilowatt from a socket there (kettle, hair dryer, space heater…). And having lived with the three voltages (100V, 120V, 240V) on four continents, I’ll happily take the 120V supply instead of the 240V.

There are lots of AC coils out there – in my parts bins I have AC driven relays, and AC solenoid valves. How do they work?