Sega pushes the Mega Drive Mini global release to 2019 | Circuit Breaker Parts

“International” power supplies usually are specified for 100V (Japan) to 240V +/- 10%, i.e., 90-264V.

The skin depth varies with the magnetic permeability of the material. Iron for example reacts at very low frequencies, so much so that it becomes useless for wires at 50 Hz.

The outlet on your wall is likely on a 15 amp circuit, so in many cases, the Smart Plug can handle as much power as the breaker or fuse can. To see what the power requirements of many electrical devices are and what type of load they create, you should visit Electrical Safety First. It’s a site based out of the UK, but the power ratings for products are the same no matter which country you use them in and the charts here are an invaluable tool.

Engineering types have been known to reduce “Preventive Maintenance” in the large “Mains” switch panels in an attempt to save budget funding. A close friend stepped up to a sadly neglected switch panel, pushed the dis-connect and the panel door blew off in his face. It seems that dust is conductive, and will explode if a large spark is present. The good news, he is alive, and was promoted to avoid a lawsuit. :cheers:

Current starts derating at about 82C (see page 12). But look at the size and configuration of the heat sink required for a 25A SSR, it is 100mmx100mm with lots of fins (see page 13). That will be with lots of free air, preferably mounted so the fins are vertical or with some forced air flow.

True enough; This hack goes back decades floor finishers who have large floor sanders use this hack to run their large sanders.

I’ve been shocked a few times. First time, a friend and I were changing out outlets in a room in his house. He shut off the breaker for the room, and I watched him plug a lamp in and test it. I found out the HARD way, that each side of the room was ran through a different breaker… I got a quick jolt and the gerber tool I was using catapulted across the room…

This! I just want to add: >3. Verify that the system is really dead. Use an appropriate tool. Test the tool, test if the system is dead, retest the tool. It should be broken or may have broke while testing. >Use nonflammable clothes. Yes! Synthetic materials melts, sticks to your skin and burns – you don’t want this! >Use electrically protective gloves. and check them before use! Do not work alone and if the second person has no clues about electricity instruct him: -What NOT to touch. -CUT THE CURRENT before trying to help somebody that has been electrocuted. -Where the main breaker is and how to operate it. Have a fire extinguisher and a fire blanket (if you catch fire) handy.

MOVs tend to degrade gradually after a large surge or multiple small surges. This degradation leads to increasing MOV leakage current; in turn, this raises the MOV’s temperature, even under normal conditions such as a 120-V ac or 240-V ac operating voltage. A thermal disconnect adjacent to the MOV (Fig. 4) can be used to sense the increase in MOV temperature while it continues to degrade to its end-of-life condition. At this point, the thermal disconnect will open the circuit, removing the degraded MOV from the circuit and thus preventing potential catastrophic failure.

Rob, where would anyone ever get 10,000V from? Or even 1,000? Short of lightning strikes, these voltages don’t exist in the home, or in many factories. Why do those voltages matter?

Optoisolators are designed so that even in failure they are capable of holding back thousands of volts. UL registration demands no less. The same is true of isolated power supplies.

I typed “bolts” for “volts” in one of my ramblings here, but caught it before clicking Post Comment. Let this be the ROUND(e^23,0) request for the ability to edit our comments, at least for a few minutes after posting. Hell, even WaPo allows it.