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I also own an electric kiln designed to heat and temper glass so a page can be taken from that design. I haven’t made the effort to investigate the heating elements as of yet.

Remember that, across the same resistance, power goes up with the square of voltage; 120v RMS can deliver 100x the wattage of a 12v supply, and 240v delivers 400x.

The rest of the circuit would be built on the backside, with judicious use of surface mount electronics rated for miltemp operation (to 125C). Standard connectors from Samtec or Molex can handle the current drive easily, with no problems from the heat. Add an acrylic conformal coat on the backside, or perhaps potting the electronics, and you can make the entire module one single brick module.

Of course you can use an extra 50Hz transformer, you do not need voltage regulation. But you need power (DC) for motors and electronics. If you have already a switching PSU (which are often even cheaper than big heavy iron/copper transformers of the same power) the extra power capability for the heater does not cost very much. Lets say you will not get the 120VA transformer for the price difference of lets say a 80W PSU vs. a 200W PSU. Also you can switch the DC with a single MOSFET.

Read ‘Hack’ as in ” don’t really know what they’re doing” or ” shouldn’t really work but does anyway”

Not sure where did you get “…A quick looks shows BT137 will burn 20W to switch a 5A load…”. BT137 has the following listed: On State voltage (Vt) @It=10A is 1.3V, max 1.65, so the worst case is 16.5W, more realistic 13W. Not to laugh at, but still not close to 20W

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Electric blankets have lots of testing to ensure they’re safely insulated from the user. They also don’t get nearly as hot. They also use too much power to economically run from a low voltage PSU.

It must be completely fine, and I actually prefer IEC equipment (that is double-listed) for many applications, but whenever I have visited Europe, the general level of electrical safety (and the way things are wired) has often seemed a lot sketchier. Then again, they benefit from three phase just about everywhere, and their distribution network is nicely balanced. The NEC and life safety codes in general in the US seem comparatively highly conservative but I suppose I don’t particularly mind. Would your experience agree?

Called the MPSMv2, the core of the project is the ESP8266 module. The dev board itself can support anything with GPIO pins, whether it’s an Arudino, Raspberry Pi, or anything else with those features. Flashing the NodeMCU firmware is pretty much all that needs to be done in order to get the device up and running, and once you get the device connected to your WiFi you’ll be able to control whatever appliances you want.

But yes, 1A is the absolute maximum, peak value for the MOC3041M for a brief amount of time. Even the MOC3041’s 8A maximum, temporary rating is unsuitable as a peak for a typical 15A US mains.

For every piece of equipment that lists MOCP and MCA, you are given the breaker size and minimum wire ampacity. As above, the MOCP is usually significantly higher than the MCA, but this is to allow for the spike in amp draw upon motor start.