Senate committee cancels votes on judicial nominees after Jeff Flake’s Mueller ultimatum | Lrd12 Overload Relay

It’s good to see a snubber on the design (that’s often omitted on DIY designs I’ve seen). There are a few TRIACs that are designed to commute highly-inductive loads (“snubberless” is the marketing term I’ve seen) — may worth looking into them to reduce the BOM.

I’ve done enough research about power capacitors and mains voltage that after I unplug anything, including all the TV’s that I work on, to repeatedly press and/or hold the power button until I’m satisfied that it’s discharged before cracking it open.

Special features. The Sony Alpha A33 incorporates a variety of unusual features that have appeared previously in the company’s NEX and Cyber-shot series digital cameras, including Sweep Panorama, 3D Sweep Panorama, Auto High Dynamic Range, and Handheld Twilight modes. Each of these modes automatically captures several images, microaligns them, and then combines them into one image with attributes that couldn’t have been achieved in a single still.

Another potential issue of the translucent mirror design is that with an extra optical surface between the lens and the imager, flare could be increased, and image quality degraded, and indeed we’ve seen some evidence of this in predominantly dark shots containing bright point light sources, as described elsewhere in this review. There’s also another surface for dust to adhere to, and while this would be too far from the image sensor to appear as distinct specks, it could further contribute to issues with flare and reduced contrast. While manual sensor cleaning will now be a familiar process for photographers used to shooting with a digital SLR, cleaning the pellicle mirror is a total unknown. The Sony A33 provides a cleaning mode allowing the sensor to be accessed, and the pellicle mirror itself can be manually raised to facilitate this, but Sony’s documentation provides no advice on cleaning the pellicle mirror itself, simply noting that the surface of the mirror shouldn’t be touched.

At the end of the day all power supplies deserve respect, not least because they’re more likely to kill you by burning your house down than through electrocution.

The risk / reward ratio just doesn’t seem worth it to me, when it’s so easy to have an intrinsically safe low-voltage one.

This is overkill. You don’t need a safety-ECU for this. It is much safer to use the thermal fuse(s) you mention and they are sufficient. If the safety can done without CPU intervention, then do it. 2mil Kapton may have this standoff voltage, but it is scratched easily. I would bond the (high-tg FR4) PCB heater with silicone to a glassplate (pyrex or something).

It does seem to be an old electrician’s habit, never leaving the leads plugged into amps. Somebody commented on one of Big Clive’s videos about him doing that. Seems like a good habit to get into.

I certain the Residual Current Circuit Breaker is what GFCI is in North America. Not expensive at all for the units that will fit into a device box. The breaker that mount in the breaker panel are pretty pricey though, but are rarely called for. The only time they are needed if a building uses shallow device boxes for some reason.

Point taken. Perhaps it’s time to change of the the mindset, of the at large DIY community to when treated with properly 120/240 VAC can be used safely, as it’s being used day in and say out. I recall a project of Limor Fried made a project more as need be be becase she appered to be overly frearful of line voltage, then again she was taking into consideration the carelessness in the hacker community. One the flip side I personally know electrical engineers with decade in the filed who flippantly say 120 VAC can’t kill you. I know enough to know they are being full of shit In the end because of irritation fear useful resource is being ignored. Then again I have history of being comfortable with working on motor controls with neatly 800 VAC feeding them or working with electronic devices that have more than 30,0000 volts inside the cabinet. Lower voltages bring greater safy to life burt rquire higher current to do the amount of work, potetiall a fire hazrds id something goes wrong.

Jamie Spinelli’s job as a case manager for Community Services Northwest takes her to parks, homeless shelters, the jail and…

I hard-wired my Level 2 charger into my main panel in 2012, using some 8-AWG wire from Home Depot and a double 40A breaker, plus some sundry clips, clamps, and screws. That stuff cost about $50 then. But I’m comfortable with doing such work myself. It’s akin to installing a circuit for a range or a dryer. I recently moved the thing to better suit my new EV.