The best defense is to make sure you buy from reputable sources, not from some backyard hardware store or eBay.
Pools have come a long way. It used to be you had a pump and if you were lucky it had a mechanical timer switch on it. That was it. Now you have digital controllers and spa jets and heaters. You can even get them that connect to your home automation system. If your pool isn’t new enough to do that already, you can get a range of add-on accessories. For a price. [Rob] paid $500 to get a remote for his pool. It wasn’t even WiFi, just a simple RF remote. In 3 years, the transmitter had burned out ($300 to replace) and he decided he had enough. For $20, [Rob] added MQTT control and monitoring to his pool using an ESP8266. You can see the video description of the project below.
The outlet on your wall is likely on a 15 amp circuit, so in many cases, the Smart Plug can handle as much power as the breaker or fuse can. To see what the power requirements of many electrical devices are and what type of load they create, you should visit Electrical Safety First. It’s a site based out of the UK, but the power ratings for products are the same no matter which country you use them in and the charts here are an invaluable tool.
Prior circuit. The OP says in the thread that he puts 8 foot cords on his so he doesn’t need to use an extension cord. Personally I’d go longer, also I’d keep a common “3-lamp” outlet tester handy.
The QD terminals are totally fine as long as you have a ratchet crimper, which I saw you said that you did.
In the second week, I’m not even sure why I did it, I was working on a pinball machine and measured 240V between the chrome plates on the front of the 2 pinball machines to either side of the one I was working on. The electrician had “forgotten” to hook any of the earths for the whole building.
Technically it depends on the amount of resistance, effectively proportional to the amount of the conductor the electricity is able to pass through. With AC that means the skin effect comes into play but that’s a whole other bundle of fun math. With DC it’s essentially amps times volts.
To be exact: It’s the anode or acceleration voltage. Focus is usually some kV, but derived from a 100Meg voltage divider.
I seem to remember one test video I saw online, possibly BigClive, finding that the actual rating on the faux-Fotek SSR that he was dissecting was rated at around 10A, in a 25A labeled SSR. I believe it was also a MOSFET instead of the SCR or TRIAC that it was supposed to have, as well.
Pioneer has announced it is offering three in-dash receiver models for your car that support CarPlay and Android Auto. Pioneer says that the units — the AVIC-W8400NEX, -W6400NEX, and -W4400NEX — are the first in-dash receivers to support FLAC files without the need to convert, and they’re the first that can connect wirelessly or over USB to both Android Auto and Apple CarPlay, as reported by Engadget.
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One nice thing about the Sony A55 and A33′s electronic viewfinder is that the Fn menu is also available in the viewfinder display; you can make many camera settings without taking your eye from the viewfinder eyepiece. As I became more familiar with the camera’s controls, this led to a very efficient shooting style, although it would take more than the few days I’ve had with the camera thus far for this to become second nature.
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