The easiest way to revolutionize your computer’s audio | 19mm Momentary Push Button

Some heaters are a coil of Alloy wire cast in ceramic and then enclosed in a stainless steel tube. Basically a bad inductor, but still having the surge properties of one. Same with big boy halogen bulbs.

The QD terminals I buy are not the crappy ones you get at Home Depot. I buy 10 gauge Molex AviKrimp ones from DigiKey. They’re ~33 cents each at Q:250. They are no joke. I use them in the high current path of OpenEVSEs that I build for up to 24A, and they perform perfectly.

You can not do it much more complicated! If you want to heat your print bed by induction, it has to be ferromagnetic to work with a commercial induction cookers coil. And using the copper coil as resistive heater is also no good idea.

During service calls, being able to identify undersized conductors can help resolve compressor start issues or intermittent trips of breakers or fuses. Knowing appropriate and inappropriate breaker and conductor sizes will save you and your customers time and money.

The importance of inspection isn’t so much the wires popping off as heating up. Any signs of discoloration of the crimp terminals or wires, or any fog or smoke and you should disconnect *everything* immediately and stop using it until or unless it is repaired and ALL heat damaged components replaced and THROWN AWAY.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extra-low_voltage >Extra-low voltage (ELV), in electricity supply, is one of several means to protect against electrical shock. The International Electrotechnical Commission and its member organizations define an ELV circuit as one in which the electrical potential of any conductor against earth (ground) is not more than either 25 volts RMS (35 volts peak) for alternating current[inconsistent], or ripple-free 60 volts for direct current under dry conditions.

I have used a setup like this using two back-to-back “door-bell” transformers (220V to 9V) to play with neon tubes when I was a kid. The current was so low that even a lightbulb wouldn’t turn on. However, it was enough to teach me about electric shock from mains voltage when I have carelessly put my finger across the output terminals …

In this context, “voltage transients” are defined as short-duration surges of electrical energy. In the electrical or electronic circuits that varistors intend to protect, this energy may be released either in a predictable manner via controlled switching actions, or randomly induced into a circuit from external sources. Common sources include:

The third apartment I ever rented had ungrounded two-prong outlets in the kitchen, and rather than do the old 3-prong-adapter route for the microwave (the good ones with a green wire to the center screw), I said, “let’s replace the outlet,” I switched the breaker, verified that there was no power with a lamp, and started disassembly…. and the screwdriver arced, Most likely the breaker was on the neutral instead of the hot or something stupid like that. I did one of those “cat with octopus on his face” nope nope nopes, and *carefully* reassembled everything and fetched the darn 3-prong adapter.

Your friend reminds me of a domestic main voltage electrician that would test with the back of his hand. He’s dead now.

The US had the luxury of a relatively new infrastructure to deal with, just like our cars we built roads to fit the cars Europeans built cars to fit the roads, high RPM small displacement, VS low RPM large displacement in US. Power in Europe had to be retrofitted into 300 year old buildings, much easier with higher voltage-thinner wires, if you have ever been over there they also run their plumbing on the outside in old buildings because there is nowhere to put it inside the walls.

I have to say in this case it’s probably a necessity to get anyone to look at the photos, so humdrum is the subject matter