The easiest way to revolutionize your computer’s audio | 220v Contactor Relay

I’ve left perhaps the most salient characteristic of the Sony AF55 and A33′s EVF till last: It’s huge. The view through the Sony A33′s eyepiece is much more akin to that of a full-frame DSLR than that of any competing sub-frame model currently on the market. It manages this with a comfortably high eye point (and plenty of dioptric adjustment) for eyeglass wearers, at least when simply viewing the live viewfinder image itself.

One more thing. If you are not a electrician you should not be playing with Live power. Like you said you almost killed your family, And Possibly more people.

People that build or use 3D printers aren’t necessarily qualified electricians or know how to handle high voltage safely. That’s what I mean for ” Can’t let Darwin wipe them out when they happens to the target market… ”

A 25A relay seems perfect for a 22A load. If the relay is really built for 25A and not only marked as one. What use had a maximum rating when you could never really use it?

One of Sony’s nifty tricks is their in-camera "sweep panorama" technology. The A33 and A55 let you shoot panoramas with the camera held either vertically or horizontally. The vertical orientation makes taller/narrower panoramas that are 5,536 x 2,160 pixels, as seen in the top photo above. With the camera held in landscape orientation, panoramas are 8,192 x 1,856 pixels.

All of the wire in the high current path is 10 gauge wire that was cut from SOOW cable, so it is, indeed, rated for 600V. In addition, it has 105 degree insulation, which means that it’s actually good for more than 30A. But it’s largely moot since the NEMA 5-15 plugs would only ever be found on 20A circuits (and even then, they likely wouldn’t be dedicated).

Aluminum is only used for specific applications like very heavy feeds and they have special connections for it. Wire nuts when properly used are very reliable. Push locks are not all they are cracked to be sometimes too. We do have them, I have installed literally tens of thousands of WAGO connectors. Generally we do not use fuses here, almost all circuit breakers and most new houses now have arc detect breakers too. They are used in industrial situations where you have 100A+ service to a single machine.

As an example, I went to my mom’s place in the mountains, plugged in my Clarity PHEV using a 100 foot 12 gauge extension cord to an outdoor outlet that looked corroded. After an hour I checked the plug and it was hot of course, so I stopped charging, cleaned the outlet thoroughly, plugged it back in and it was cool (or just slightly warm) to the touch along the entire cord and outlet through the charging process. Using the extension cord is dangerous as there is no thermal sensor in the extension cord at the outlet or could be damaged internally. The corroded outlet was dangerous (and could have very likely melted out had I not checked it). The cord can get easily damage.

ead of single layer traces covered by the paint, what about multilayer PCB? So the traces would be embedded between two FR4. This way it would be safer.

Isn’t welding the core kind of a bad idea as it will short the laminated plates and make it heat a lot?

The use of isolation transformers that is suggested here is very dangerous as the residual current detector of the installation won’t detect anything if one gets electrocuted from the secondary of the transformer. I’d rather not use an isolation transformer unless I really need.

The risk / reward ratio just doesn’t seem worth it to me, when it’s so easy to have an intrinsically safe low-voltage one.