It’s what this high technology allows that’s so exciting: real-time, phase-detect autofocus while firing off up to seven 14-megapixel frames per second in the A33, and ten 16-megapixel images per second in the A55. Few other large-sensor cameras offer frame rates this fast. DSLRs rivalling the A33′s speed are available for a little over $1,500, while only professional cameras that cost around $5,000 can match the speed of the A55 — and they’re still not capable of real-time autofocus between shots like the new Sony Alpha SLT cameras. Real-time phase-detect autofocus is also constantly available in Movie mode, something no current SLR can achieve.
I like the idea, but you don’t need a 3D printer for this. Just use conductive strips or good ol’ fashioned wire.
If you do not know the exact value of each cost, you could enter an estimated percentage based on the cost of goods.
No, thatâs not a typo in the fact box up top. I drove the Niro PHEV a total of 253.2 miles, and topped off the tank with 3.107 gallons of regular unleaded. 81.4934 miles to the gallon very nearly doubles the mileage I observed last year in the standard Niro. 26 miles of all-electric range makes a serious difference â there were many days where the gasoline engine never fired.
There are of course odd exceptions: my grandmother’s old house from the 1920’s had an instant water heater. It was a single 415V element, connected between two phases. Highly unusual, and nearly killed an electrician who didn’t realise that one side of it wasn’t neutral.
I’m a bit spoiled as far as AC load SSRs go, since I get IDEC and Omron puck SSRs from obsolete equipment at work, but always exercise due caution when I have to go shopping for DC load SSRs. Far too much fake stuff out there, masquerading as reputable brands, some to the point of ruining the reputation of the brand. (Fotek… For the longest time I thought they were only a Chinese brand, like the various Harbor Freight “brands” that they slap on their junk tooling offerings.)
Good call, light bulbs and heating elements don’t need perfect smooth precise 12vDC, as long as it’s in the ball park you’re good.
It’s *mostly* read-only. They usually have a LED for power-on indication. You could stick something to the front to detect that, if you needed a response. Tho for things like lights, usually the user will press the button again if they don’t come on the first time.
Evil Triacs, should be banned by Law anywhere in the World. How is looking a dimmer with Relays? I will love to see a picture. Or an evening filmed youtube video with it, the contact sparks are a free added effect, nice one 
I do not disagree that this is not the best way to do it. I have only used it for temporary installation, and only when I can frequently inspect everything involved for signs of elevated temperature. At home, I had a licensed electrician install a NEMA 6-50 and a 40A circuit (which we de-rate to 32A for EVSE service) in our garage for our car charging needs.
In the case of Chinese relays and SSRs I double the amps and add 10% …. Ditto for Chinese switching regulators which put out everything but DC after they reach about 50-60% of their rated load
The heater from the inner layer of the PCB still needs to exit to the surface using vias or plated through holes some how. So the contacts are still exposed. You might use a TRIAC in something like the phase control in a dimmer switch as a PWM to control heater power, but the peaks voltages at the output are still at line voltages levels.
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