The end of Instagram as we know it is here | 19mm Momentary Push Button

Called the MPSMv2, the core of the project is the ESP8266 module. The dev board itself can support anything with GPIO pins, whether it’s an Arudino, Raspberry Pi, or anything else with those features. Flashing the NodeMCU firmware is pretty much all that needs to be done in order to get the device up and running, and once you get the device connected to your WiFi you’ll be able to control whatever appliances you want.

Once upon a time, must have been 13 or 14 at the time, was doing the annual find the blown bulb in the christmas tree lights. Must have completed said mission and marvelled how the bit of cable at the middle/end of the lights was hidden within insulation tape (lights must have been 20 or so years old, this was in the 90s) and the curious being that I am thought let’s see what the tapes hiding – obviously bare wires.

But despite them being ‘commercial’, they’re still pretty hideous bits of cheap Chinese kit that I wouldn’t trust as far as I could throw them.

And it’s is a bad advice from ESD protection standpoint as well because nothing else, like your table where the new components are laying on, isn’t grounded so you’ve just created a potential well.

“The Psychopath Test” by Jon Ronson is a great book about it, the guy who invented the checklist now used to diagnose psychopaths, has his pet theory that psychopaths with power are the cause of many of the world’s ills and inequities. His name’s Bob Hare, and he probably knows more about it than most other experts.

The dimmer switch for the kitchen lights was rated for up to 600 watts, but the wattage at the lights was more than this; there were ten 65-watt bulbs on this circuit. This caused the front of the switch to get extremely hot, and creates a potential fire hazard. Have this corrected.

One of the best demonstrations I’ve ever seen, was at the Dayton hamvention. DP&L (Dayton Power & Light) set up several short poles with standard 7200 to 220 center tap transformers. By back feeding the secondaries with 220 from the breaker box, they could energize the 7200 lines and began demonstration what happens when you encounter these wires with numerous items. Antenna masts, kite strings, and even a hot dog were used to show the immense power available, and the audience was always suitably impressed.

I have been led to believe (largely by bigclive) that Fotek are OK but there are lots of fake Foteks out there.

This plate is too likely to touch the user. It’s sensible to have a certain fear of mains voltages, makes you pay attention when you’re working with it. The DC power suggested would come from the printer’s existing PSU, pay a little bit extra for a few more amps, the overall wattage isn’t high. Much less than I presume you’d use in industry. Thanks to power-hungry graphics cards, high-power PC PSUs are cheap.

And now you know why companies react the way they do. It would be like someone going around deliberately ruining your reputation, and there’s little you could do about it.

8 or 12 is usually less than level 2 installations. As I mention they are cool running and very safe. I dare anyone to find a 2012 Tesla MC charging at 40 amperes to say it is ‘cool running’. If it was very hot at the authorized Tesla Service Center, that is all I need to know.

The importance of inspection isn’t so much the wires popping off as heating up. Any signs of discoloration of the crimp terminals or wires, or any fog or smoke and you should disconnect *everything* immediately and stop using it until or unless it is repaired and ALL heat damaged components replaced and THROWN AWAY.