My friend died of electrocution while on the job. Our mains voltage here is 240V (single phase) or 415V (three phase) and not very forgiving.
The problem is that the triac may dissipate more than 15W when using it at 10A, which requires a good heatsink and ventilation. That’s a lot of overkill if you just want to control a 6W LED lamp.
I’ll try to fix your old item if I can, but I might ask you to have a new replacement on hand just in case. Don’t skip the shopping trip because you’re banking on me being able to fix the old one. If it’s beyond repair, I’ll need to come back (and charge you) for a second visit once you get to the store instead of finishing the first time around, ultimately costing you more. You’re better off buying it and returning it if we don’t need it. Just don’t bother with these 32 home upgrades that are a waste of money.
I also own an electric kiln designed to heat and temper glass so a page can be taken from that design. I haven’t made the effort to investigate the heating elements as of yet.
He welded the base of the magnets to the plate that is hold directly to the crane with a hook. Look again.
Dust reduction. The Sony A33 has a dust abatement and removal system. A charge-protection coating on the low-pass filter aims to prevent dust adhering in the first place. The sensor shift mechanism used to provide SteadyShot image stabilization also doubles as a shake mechanism to try and free stubborn dust particles that settle on the low-pass filter, although at much lower frequencies than the vibration induced by cameras using a piezoelectric element. From what we can tell, there is no strategy for keeping dust off the translucent mirror, except to blow the surface gently with air; it cannot be cleaned, and should never be touched. A fingerprint would require replacement at a service center.
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I’ve paid 18’000.- CHF in Switzerland back in 2017 for a 9.3kW roof top installation and I’ve gotten 5’580.- CHF back from the Swiss government in cash. That’s like 13 cents per watt installed
Yes, agreed, actual power supply design must take into account the allowable possible range of input. My house nominal “240V” supply routinely hits 252V, for example, and is allowed to go as high as +6% (254V).
I do not claim infallibility. I invite criticism of my designs. But I insist on that criticism be based on my work rather than be mere FUD.
Also I have seen opto-couples where the pins have been spayed out to gain an extra 0.1″ between the rows of pins.
But used separately, you might drive 10A through a primary and perhaps 15 through a secondary (almost requiring 2 differsnt sources,) dependant on wire gauge as the limiting factor. Now with 2 switches, you can drive the magnet at A, B or A+B strengths!
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