The Expanse is being turned into an RPG | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

It is not enough to have the proper tools, you also have to use them in a safe way. The basic five rules go like this: 1. Disconnect from mains. 2. Secure against reconnection. 3. Verify that the system is really dead. 4. Perform earthing and short circuiting. 5. Provide protection from nearby live parts.

Yup, switched off but still plugged in, that way the case is still earthed. Assuming a sensible 3-pin plug, or whatever the hell they do in places with just 2.

For instance, when I test a car that specifically touts efficiency, I always plan a relatively rigorous regimen of fuel economy measurements, including filling and refilling the tank at the same pump, and maintaining a consistent driving style. But then a school bus is late and I have to rush to the office, keeping me from the fuel pump before the car goes away — and keeping my foot to the floor a bit more than ideal. Or a charging plug falls out of the wall socket you’ve been meaning to replace for a decade.

1. 25A for 22A? Too close for my comfort. 2. A thin sheet of aluminum is not much of a heat sink. 3. Sitting on top of the hot water heater means ambient temp is going to be a bit higher. 4. Summer in a garage is likely to get hot.

The QD terminals are totally fine as long as you have a ratchet crimper, which I saw you said that you did.

It’s a little unusual to see an effective pixel resolution for an electronic viewfinder, but we believe the reason effective resolution is some 20% lower than the EVF’s actual pixel count is that Sony has selected an LCD with approximately a 4:3 aspect ratio, but are only using the central 16:9 aspect ratio swathe of the display. This is likely done both to match the rear-panel LCD display aspect, and also because even with this crop, the EVF already has a generous 1.1x magnification — much higher than that of most APS-C DSLRs — and a somewhat tight eyepoint of 19mm from the viewfinder eyepiece (18mm from the eyepiece frame). Were the whole display used, the eyepoint would fall uncomfortably low — it’s already just a little tight for eyeglass wearers. Thankfully, it includes an unusually wide -4 to +4 diopter adjustment range, better mitigating the tight eyepoint for those with eyeglass prescriptions inside this range. It also has a 100% field of view, and three step automatic / manual brightness control.

I’ve thought about converting my Solidoodle 2 to 120v bed heating for ages now. I think it’s a good idea with a lot of benefits. I’ve been far to lazy to actually do it, however. Maybe one day I’ll get my act together. In the mean time I’ll just sit here and envy other people who have had the initiative to actually do it.

Nah, they’re just creating the latest OpenSource platform as Arduino LCC, Arduino iso, Arduino Inc and Arduino & Co. fight over which is the real Shady.

While we didn’t encounter any exposure accuracy issues in our lab tests, I had a little trouble with the Sony A33 and A55′s exposure system in the field. Under bright sunlight, I was generally shooting with -0.3 EV of exposure compensation dialed in. Looking at my photos on the computer later, it seemed that many of them really could have used -0.7 EV. The overexposure bias seemed fairly universal under bright lighting, regardless of whether the subject itself was low- or high-key. Shots under lower lighting didn’t seem to have the same issue, though.

Evil picture, don’t coil your cord tightly around the EVSE, it should hang loosely to dissipate heat

I had the same shock at 8 years old I put my finger in a lamp socket with no bulb, Living in UK I was treated to 240v. I have never had a mains shock since (thankfully). i have had lots of other shocks though mainly non discharged capacitor’s/

Overall though, you’re just talking about increased RMS voltage allowing more current; the more current the more burn, heart arrhythmia and neuromuscular effects.