The Expanse is being turned into an RPG | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

There are of course odd exceptions: my grandmother’s old house from the 1920’s had an instant water heater. It was a single 415V element, connected between two phases. Highly unusual, and nearly killed an electrician who didn’t realise that one side of it wasn’t neutral.

Far as I’m aware, you’re supposed to get a qualified person to fit an electric cooker. Of course, doesn’t stop me doing it. Actually more complicated than you think, it’s not just 3 terminals, there’s a dozen bits of plastic and metal in there that all need putting back in the right order.

I’m always a little torn over really small camera bodies, as it can be uncomfortable to twist my longer-than-average fingers around a small handgrip. That said, I really didn’t find the smallish grip on the Sony A55 too objectionable. The design of the front grip naturally encourages my middle and third fingers to curve downward, my pinkie to fold underneath the body, and to carry the weight of the camera on my middle finger, between the second and third knuckle. My customary two-handed SLR grip, with one hand on the lens’ zoom ring made for a comfortable and secure hold.

If you’re comfortable swapping out a circuit breaker, you can get GFCI circuit breakers as well. Protect the whole circuit at the panel.

It’s *mostly* read-only. They usually have a LED for power-on indication. You could stick something to the front to detect that, if you needed a response. Tho for things like lights, usually the user will press the button again if they don’t come on the first time.

If I was working on your bedroom lighting and an outlet in your basement stops working a few days later, that’s just a coincidence. I’ll come back for the second project, but don’t expect me to do it for free because I “broke” it the last time. If I wasn’t working with that circuit, this new problem is unrelated.

I’m wondering why nobody is simply rectifying a 120vac input for dc wiring the secondary coil? It means you don’t have to swap the coil location or use a dc power supply. I have a trans with a secondary resistance of 82ohms. Putting 120vdc through it would be about 175watts (assuming I do a good job of determining wire size and 1.46amps is ok)

I have never seem a ‘cooked’ TRIAC or a TRIAC that is not working properly unless it has exploded.

I don’t know where your grid is, but in North America, high voltage lines are not 100 kV. 19 kV and 69 kV are typical for local distribution. 115 or 138 kV for intra-city, and 230 or 500 kV for most long-haul lines, not counting the whacky HVDC or EHV stuff.

Kapton tape is nice but I know it peels and needs replacing eventually. You wouldn’t legally be able to sell something using just tape as a mains insulator. Glass can break. It’s a small chance, but risk should be proportionate to the danger when things fail. You might sometimes have metal screws or whatnot on the bed if you’re assembling a couple of pieces there. Best not to mess.

I don’t know where do you see low voltage traces close to mains voltage. Trace from R8 to the opto is 2.64. How far do you think it should be to meet your standards? Conformal coating is telling you anything?

Sweep Panorama mode makes shooting panoramas easy, but not entirely brainless: It often takes me a few tries to get just the shot I want. The camera throws away a fair bit of the image area top/bottom and left/right, to insure that it has enough room to get everything aligned properly, despite your having angled the camera or not having swept perfectly horizontally or vertically. Sometimes, you can end up with your main subject higher or lower in the frame than you’d anticipated. It’s also easy to get a tilted horizon, if the camera orientation or your sweep direction is a little off. I found the A33 and A55′s level indicator and viewfinder gridline displays very helpful for avoiding these problems, although there was a little learning curve for me to make effective use of them.