Would that we solved with two opto’s per button, one to read and one to press ? Ignoring the LED feature entirely. Because you cannot assign a pin to be both input and output.
Clearing the work space and moving any furniture before I arrive means I can get in and out faster, so I can charge you for less of my time.
Waterjet, who seemingly has no concept of how a basic opto-isolated diac-driven triac circuit works, chimes in with useless blabber about insufficient current ratings of the *optoisolator* — seriously? If you’re going to throw stones at someone, perhaps you could verify that you have somewhat of a clue of what you’re talking about?
I know a lot of people that have never heard about “makers” but I wouldn’t trust them near any mains wiring – like my own dad who has wired a circuit breaker between live and neutral. Only the ensuing BANG and my mom’s swearing and yelling from the now dark kitchen have disabused him of the idea that that is how it should be done.
A steamy day on the flat roof of a building will let you feel how many inches the 480 can sting your fingers from also.
Even with a large heat sink like that, shrink it to 50mmx100mm and the datasheet lists a max of 10A. With that aluminum plate, I’d be surprised if it could handle more than 5A for a length of time.
The AVIC-W8400NEX flagship has a 7-inch capacitive touchscreen, while the AVIC-W6400NEX has a 6.2-inch capacitive touchscreen, and the AVH-W4400NEX has a 7-inch display with resistive touch capabilities. The receivers support both Google Assistant and Siri and can operate wirelessly via Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or wired through a Lightning connection. Additionally, you can control your smart home devices through the units, including things like a garage door, locks, or lights.
I don’t know if the heat is high enough but mirror heating pads can be quite small and put under a sheet of glass would be quite effective.
I don’t think you can get multimeters that share the volts and amps socket, since the amps is usually a shunt to the ground terminal, very low-resistance, big and chunky high-wattage resistor. Volts is, ideally, infinite resistance, but not in practice of course.
It’s probably worth at this point explaining for a minute how earthing works with respect to mains power. You will have a local earth connection at your house, and your utility company will connect the neutral line to an earth at the substation to ensure that line voltages are not induced at a higher voltage with respect to their surroundings than the voltage they are supposed to carry. There may be 110V or 230V between the live and the neutral depending where you live, but without that earth connection both of those conductors could end up at thousands of volts higher than their surroundings, for example in a thunderstorm. The earth connection provides a fixed relationship between line voltage and the surroundings, such as the utility poles, trees, your house, and you.
This plate is too likely to touch the user. It’s sensible to have a certain fear of mains voltages, makes you pay attention when you’re working with it. The DC power suggested would come from the printer’s existing PSU, pay a little bit extra for a few more amps, the overall wattage isn’t high. Much less than I presume you’d use in industry. Thanks to power-hungry graphics cards, high-power PC PSUs are cheap.
OK … back to the task at hand. Anyone care to comment on how a toaster oven is wired? How about a thermal blanket? None of these use a 12V or 24V switching power supply brick, so how do they do it???
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