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The likely hazards identified, what are you about to do with it? Are you just opening it for curiosity’s sake, are you going to work on the high voltage circuit to fix it, or is it surplus that you’re scavenging for parts? If you’re just curious or simply scavenging parts, you may not have to increase the risk by applying power in the first place, so what other risks might remain?

In the second week, I’m not even sure why I did it, I was working on a pinball machine and measured 240V between the chrome plates on the front of the 2 pinball machines to either side of the one I was working on. The electrician had “forgotten” to hook any of the earths for the whole building.

But I don’t like the mains powered heater in this case: If you take 120W @24V its just 5A. No problem for a switching transistor or wires with 0,5mm² and you keep the mains voltage in the PSU box. Which I prefer in this case. Mains rated cabling (230V here in Europe) are not thinner and need thicker insulation. In the worst case you have to have PE connection to any metal part of the construction.

It’s a little unusual to see an effective pixel resolution for an electronic viewfinder, but we believe the reason effective resolution is some 20% lower than the EVF’s actual pixel count is that Sony has selected an LCD with approximately a 4:3 aspect ratio, but are only using the central 16:9 aspect ratio swathe of the display. This is likely done both to match the rear-panel LCD display aspect, and also because even with this crop, the EVF already has a generous 1.1x magnification — much higher than that of most APS-C DSLRs — and a somewhat tight eyepoint of 19mm from the viewfinder eyepiece (18mm from the eyepiece frame). Were the whole display used, the eyepoint would fall uncomfortably low — it’s already just a little tight for eyeglass wearers. Thankfully, it includes an unusually wide -4 to +4 diopter adjustment range, better mitigating the tight eyepoint for those with eyeglass prescriptions inside this range. It also has a 100% field of view, and three step automatic / manual brightness control.

Dunning-Kruger effect. It’s impossible to correctly estimate your own stupidity. This is the cause behind half of everything wrong in the world. The other half is psychopaths in positions of power.

I will not put all the money on the bet, but this one might be indeed one of the solutions: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/328/lnk302_304-306-179954.pdf if you want something “all-in-one”. I prefer a separate external PSU for many reasons, including circuit separation and protection. You can find 5V and 3.3V SMPS DIN rail mouting ones for decent prices.

I don’t know who all of you people are, but stop being ridiculous. This guy made an ESP8266-based TRIAC switch, and gave the design away for free. He has ample warnings on his web page about this project. I encourage anyone who wants to use this design to research the subject thoroughly to make sure they understand what they’re doing.

While no standard is perfect, I have found that knowing the NEC and looking carefully at manufacturer listings and labels can save you time, your customers money, and help keep everyone safe.   

Back in the day the UK before EU harmonisation the nominal single phase domestic voltage was 240V ac and within a range of +10% and -6% ie 264V and 225.6 V Under EU harmonisation it is 230V +10% and -6% ie 256 V and 216.2 V. I can assure you that voltage control at Primary substations in the UK 33KV/11KV was lowered to the new nominal for the nominal voltage at secondary substations 11KV/415V/230V. A good thing really as it saves energy

LOL– I stepped into doo-doo deep enough to over top chest waders, I’m over six feet tall, so that’s deep doo-doo. First I was surprise to learn that the heated beds weren’t heated by line voltage, IMO that’s a no brainer. Appliances across the word use line voltage to produce heat with no shock hazard present when use properly. Getting back to the deep doo-doo. Hackaday does present instruction posts. Line voltage is useful resource that is avoided because of irrational fear. I’m calling irrational because the fear is due to ignorance. I suggest Hackaday create instructional post on how to use line voltage in a way that’s safe to life and doesn’t cause property damage when something goes wrong. Peer reviewed studies and guidelines information is preferred.

Far as I’m aware, you’re supposed to get a qualified person to fit an electric cooker. Of course, doesn’t stop me doing it. Actually more complicated than you think, it’s not just 3 terminals, there’s a dozen bits of plastic and metal in there that all need putting back in the right order.

You likely encountered a shared neutral between more than one circuit. You have to switch off the breakers for all the circuits that share the neutral.