Things Your Electrician Wishes You Knew | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

I can’t speak for 75 mph, but the EPA for the regular hybrid Niro is high 40s to 50 mpg highway. Since this car uses the same Atkinson cycle 1.6L engine, I’d expect about the same fuel economy.

You may be confusing voltage drop ALONG a power line with the voltage BETWEEN lines. Maximizing the latter will transmit same power with less current, minimizing the first and hence Ohm’s Law power loss through transmission.

Of course in many parts of the world that’s not possible like it is here in the US where better than 60% of homes have access to NG

But 110/120v A/C? that stuff is baby-play, as long as you realize that you shouldn’t use both hands, or use grounding straps, it just kinda buzzes, I’ve played around with TENS devices that had more (felt) kick than it…

For instance, when I test a car that specifically touts efficiency, I always plan a relatively rigorous regimen of fuel economy measurements, including filling and refilling the tank at the same pump, and maintaining a consistent driving style. But then a school bus is late and I have to rush to the office, keeping me from the fuel pump before the car goes away — and keeping my foot to the floor a bit more than ideal. Or a charging plug falls out of the wall socket you’ve been meaning to replace for a decade.

Now we’re getting into more serious stuff. The contactor is a relay that converts the low-voltage signal from the thermostat into a signal to switch on 220V power to the compressor and condenser. When these contactors fail, the A/C unit will go down. They are a cheap and easy to replace. Check the owner’s manual to locate the contactor and replacement model.

I can’t speak for the ‘3’, but you can – since you can at least compare your cost of charging with the 240 – 250 volt cost in the Tesla Calculator.

The issue with using NEMA 5-15 receptacles is that people will use them stupidly. They will attach extension cords without knowing to properly check them for heat build up at the outlet and along their length. It just encourages bad use, modern EVSEs with heat sensors in the plug won’t work appropriately with an extension cord.

“Normal” mains voltage heating elements use nichrome (nickel chromium) some time called “resistance wire” because it has a higher resistance for a given surface area.

This! I just want to add: >3. Verify that the system is really dead. Use an appropriate tool. Test the tool, test if the system is dead, retest the tool. It should be broken or may have broke while testing. >Use nonflammable clothes. Yes! Synthetic materials melts, sticks to your skin and burns – you don’t want this! >Use electrically protective gloves. and check them before use! Do not work alone and if the second person has no clues about electricity instruct him: -What NOT to touch. -CUT THE CURRENT before trying to help somebody that has been electrocuted. -Where the main breaker is and how to operate it. Have a fire extinguisher and a fire blanket (if you catch fire) handy.

I guess writer JIM must be a “NEWBIE” or is otherwise mis-informed, but IEVs is continuing the FICTION that Underwriter’s Laboratories (UL) ‘CERTIFIES’ anything. He isn’t alone since every IEV writer says the same thing and its getting to be an echo chamber – but the end result is that IEVs is passing out bad information.

I can only think of a single instance in the last six months where the HPWC higher charge rate would have made a difference for us, and even then it would have simply made leaving for a long trip slightly more comfortable.