Things Your Electrician Wishes You Knew | Circuit Breaker Parts

My busy season is when people are spending their tax returns and spring-cleaning, but I’m slower in the winter months leading up to that. Call me then, and I might be able to offer you a lower rate if I’m desperate for business.

Since GM was having troubles with said DOPES regarding the 2011 VOLT, they quickly redesigned the current and all future units to have an AWG #14 connector cord, while keeping the AWG #16 connector cord to the car – why? – so that the oversized connector cord would extract heat from any overheating defective receptacle.

But who cares, there are plenty of (approved) lightning dimmers that are for replacing teh regular wall switches and they are usually *not* capable of dimming 2 KW loads which is the full capacity of a regular outlet. But rather just a few hundred watts, enough for its intended usage.

I use a variety of a/c and dc fostek ssrs. I have yet to have a problem, but i use them in circuits where 50% of their rated current is the absolute maximum they will ever see.

1. 25A for 22A? Too close for my comfort. 2. A thin sheet of aluminum is not much of a heat sink. 3. Sitting on top of the hot water heater means ambient temp is going to be a bit higher. 4. Summer in a garage is likely to get hot.

First off, I would set the system up more like a safety-critical system. I would have an independent, segregated processor running the heated bed. I would have checks in the system processor and re-checks built into an independent circuit built from discrete analog/digital circuits on the system. I would use two, independent temperature sensors on the board, plus at least one thermal fuse, as well as one overload protection mechanism (most likely a fuse).

The leads on that TO220 case SCR and that solder trace are not going to handle 20 amps continuously without heating up. A SCR that’s up to the task of carrying 20 amps for hours on end would have a TO-218 case or even be stud mount. If all else fails you could just use a contactor relay which is what they normally use for this application.

Step 2:  To determine which MOV disc size to use, first identify the MOV series that minimally meet the 1000-A surge requirement. Inspecting the table above suggests a 20-mm MOV with a 31-V dc maximum continuous voltage rating (part number V20E25P) as a possible solution to meet the requirements.

OK … back to the task at hand. Anyone care to comment on how a toaster oven is wired? How about a thermal blanket? None of these use a 12V or 24V switching power supply brick, so how do they do it???

I don’t disagree with you, but I think someone renting and is considering an electric car will understand and accept charging limits before their purchase. In my opinion those are early adopters. My son wants a model 3. He test drove one and could probably afford it, but he’s waiting until he can charge it. I see plenty of apartments around me are installing EVSEs now. I would imagine market forces will get more landlords to install them in the future.

Burst depth for the Sony A33 is seven Raw or Raw+JPEG frames, and 16 Fine or 20 Standard JPEG frames in a burst. That’s quite a bit less than the A55, which can capture twenty Raw or Raw+JPEG frames, while JPEG shooters can expect 35 Fine or 39 Standard-compression frames, but in our experience, the Sony A33 makes up for this deficit somewhat by clearing its buffer much faster. This means that although the A55 will get you more shots in a burst, the A33 will be ready to start another burst much sooner.

He did specifically mount/build that setup around the possibility of failure. He talks about it in the first few minutes of the video. Kinda a hyped up headline.