Things Your Electrician Wishes You Knew | Lrd12 Overload Relay

Terminals 4 and 6 are used for capacitors and/or condenser fan connections and have no electrical significance to the starting relay itself, as shown in Figure 1. In fact, terminals 4 and 6 are sometimes referred to as “dummy” terminals and are simply used for wire connections.Figure 2 shows how a potential relay is wired to a capacitor-start/capacitor-run compressor motor. Notice that the relay coil is wired in parallel with the start winding and the start capacitor.

All electrical devices are designed with safety in mind and are rigorously tested to make sure the design works. All of us have probably plugged in one too many things on the same circuit and tripped a breaker or blown a fuse, and that’s the first consideration you need to know about the Amazon Smart Plug — it has a safe output rating based on the type of load you’re using. Here are the exact technical specifications according to Amazon.

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I had my poke. Mostly people saying “may” or “could” invalidate your insurance and advising caution. Which is sensible enough. Also mention of laws mandating a professional installing things like new wiring for cookers, and other kitchen / bathroom stuff. Makes sense since there’s water about. This is the UK that I looked up, since that’s where I live. Our electrical standards are pretty high, mandatory ring mains, limits on spurs and wiring length, and even our mains plugs have half a dozen safety features built in (protection against the agony of accidentally stepping on one not included).

There’s a proper place for a relay and a proper place for a SSR. And I agree this solution should have been a relay.

I think most people recommend having the PSU switched off at the wall. That way it should be pretty much safe, but there is still the other issue you mention.

GM quickly realized this and changed the default to 8 A charging to prevent fires, and many others limit at 10 or 11 A.

Chances are almost anything you would want to power on and off through a Smart Plug will work. Lights — whether incandescent, LED, or fluorescent — are compatible as long as they are standard devices intended for use in the home (something like a street lamp or traffic light probably won’t work) and should work flawlessly. Audio-visual equipment should work provided it doesn’t need a power cycle through the built-in switch, and other smart devices like cameras or home hubs should work just fine.

Wrong again – The VOLT from the very first had a choice of 8 or 12 – it just wasn’t from the touch screen in the car in the first 2 years, it was a button on their ‘charger cord’. And there was no ‘default’. Unlike later cars such as my ELR and BOLT that must be constantly changed to 12 amps on L1 (yes, I know about zip code based charging on the bolt), my 2011 VOLT would stay at the setting you left it at since it was stored in the EVSE, NOT the car.

> and some apartments are fed with 208V 3-phase, which provide three phases of 120V to neutral, or 208V phase-to-phase.

I’ve not tried to account for phase differences (that is, power factor). It’s very naive. I measure the current via a CT and compute RMS across a whole cycle, then I find the peak voltage and do the math.

The use of isolation transformers that is suggested here is very dangerous as the residual current detector of the installation won’t detect anything if one gets electrocuted from the secondary of the transformer. I’d rather not use an isolation transformer unless I really need.