This robot uses AI to find Waldo, thereby ruining Where’s Waldo | 19mm Momentary Push Button

1) the frequency (50-60 Hz) tends to make muscles spasm repeatedly (DC spasms and stays there) 2) the frequency can interfere with cardiac electrochemical signalling (your heart goes into fibrillation) 3) the current can pass through capacitance (shielding) and via inductance 4) the current can pass through ground return and other single-wire, open circuit States

Tilt level. The Sony A33 includes a dual-axis level gauge, which helps ensure level horizons and prevent converging verticals in photos. The level gauge can be shown on either the electronic viewfinder or the rear-panel LCD, but only alongside the most basic information overlay — you can’t combine the detailed display overlays with the level gauge. A clever way around it, though, is to set one viewer to the level gauge, and the other to a more informative display, since by default you can set the display modes independently. There’s no way for the user to recalibrate the gauge, if they find the factory default to be inaccurate. The gauge is displayed in a style reminiscent of an aircraft attitude indicator, but with a separation of the roll and pitch indicators. When the camera is perfectly level, the pitch indicators and markings at the end of the roll indicator are illuminated in green.

There are lots of AC coils out there – in my parts bins I have AC driven relays, and AC solenoid valves. How do they work?

Tilt / swivel LCD. At the rear, the 3-inch LCD dominates much of the available real-estate, and its tilt/swivel mechanism — appearing for the first time in an Alpha camera — can be clearly seen. The display tilts down 180 degrees and then swivels 270 degrees, allowing it to face any direction except to the front right (handgrip) quadrant. The design not only allows easy framing of high- and low-angle shots, but also allows subjects in front of the lens to see themselves — but only when somebody’s available to hold the camera. Since the display tilts downwards, it will be blocked from view when mounted on a tripod, and can’t be extended beyond the 90-degree position with the camera placed on a flat surface, so the only way to use it for self-portraits is to hold the camera at arm’s length. It can also be difficult to deploy and use with the camera mounted on a tripod.

We’ve seen very few car charging hacks. If you know of one, or have been working on your own, let us know!

Multilayer varistors (MLVs) address a specific part of the transient-voltage spectrum: the circuit-board environment. Although lower in energy, transients from ESD, inductive load switching, and even lightning-surge remnants might otherwise reach sensitive integrated circuits on the board. MLVs are also made of ZnO materials, but they’re fabricated with interwoven layers of metal electrodes and produced in leadless ceramic packages. They’re designed to transition from a high-impedance state to a conduction state when subjected to voltages that exceed their nominal voltage rating.

Would that have ever been considered good wiring practice, or is it just the sort of short-cut that would have been done at some point?

There are of course odd exceptions: my grandmother’s old house from the 1920’s had an instant water heater. It was a single 415V element, connected between two phases. Highly unusual, and nearly killed an electrician who didn’t realise that one side of it wasn’t neutral.

Centered to the right of the lens in the photo above is the lens release button, while the depth-of-field preview button is positioned snugly at the bottom left corner of the lens mount. A small plastic panel in the handgrip conceals the infrared remote control sensor at top, and the self-timer lamp beneath. Directly beneath the shutter button and power switch is the control dial, used to make adjustments to exposure and variables and menu options.

The rear seats are nearly as roomy as the fronts , which is an incredible achievement for such a compact car. Never did the kids knee my seatback.

You are correct and if you design this type of solution you already know this. With PCB design, the alternatives are heavier copper, wider traces, plating up copper in the areas that carry heavy current or a combo of any of the three. But you can only go so far with these solutions. Hack apart a known good SSR and I bet they use the exact same solution.

You can get the domestic radio-controlled switchers, 15 UK Pounds for a set of 3 including remote. Think it’s standard 433MHz. Admittedly not Wifi but a little hub to convert the two wouldn’t be much problem. The point being all the nasty stuff’s pre-manufactured and you don’t even have to touch it once it’s plugged in. A stray radio wave’s much less likely to burn your house down, and an insurer can’t blame you for using units you bought from a reputable store. Though check for the relevant safety markings just to be sure.