This robot uses AI to find Waldo, thereby ruining Where’s Waldo | 19mm Momentary Push Button

I buy Crydom SSRs from Digikey. I pay the $40-$50 bucks, I use big assed heat sinks, and I sleep like a baby.

The thing about the picture that worries me is the receptacles seem to be mounted below 18 inches from the floor. That is a BIG NO-NO. IF there are any gasoline cans in the garage for an old lawn-mower, etc then he has just created an explosion hazard.

Among 56 analysts covering Amazon.com (NASDAQ:AMZN), 53 have Buy rating, 0 Sell and 3 Hold. Therefore 95% are positive. Amazon.com had 330 analyst reports since July 21, 2015 according to SRatingsIntel. The firm has “Buy” rating given on Thursday, September 21 by Argus Research. As per Friday, October 27, the company rating was maintained by SunTrust. The firm earned “Outperform” rating on Friday, October 27 by Oppenheimer. Wolfe Research upgraded the shares of AMZN in report on Friday, February 23 to “Buy” rating. As per Monday, October 17, the company rating was maintained by Credit Suisse. The stock has “Buy” rating by Nomura on Thursday, January 18. Jefferies maintained the stock with “Buy” rating in Friday, February 2 report. JMP Securities upgraded the stock to “Outperform” rating in Wednesday, July 22 report. Aegis Capital maintained the shares of AMZN in report on Friday, February 2 with “Buy” rating. Axiom Capital maintained the shares of AMZN in report on Tuesday, October 27 with “Buy” rating.

Still, the orderly May backdrop registers as bullish, versus the prior three months, punctuated by the S&P 500’s flag pattern pinned to the steep early-month rally.

If I was working on your bedroom lighting and an outlet in your basement stops working a few days later, that’s just a coincidence. I’ll come back for the second project, but don’t expect me to do it for free because I “broke” it the last time. If I wasn’t working with that circuit, this new problem is unrelated.

From instances I have seen in forums of melting outlets, they aren’t dopes. The bottom line is 120 V is terrible for power delivery and it is really unfortunate that US adopted that level. Often times it is the outlet failing even when used in specs, either from poor install, cheap outlet, etc.Also, they get damaged, it might have been fine when someone started using it, but they miss the damage.

Heating is a function of power loss, which varies by the square of the voltage drop and inversely with the resistance. Current is a fallout of the voltage drop across the resistance. While typically stated as I*I*R losses, getting that “I” to be a big number with a low input voltage means that R has to also be low, which decreases power. Requiring a low R for the heating element magnifies the power losses in the rest of the circuit, where heat isn’t desired.

Having sorted out your bench, how about your tools? The chances are you’ll already have everything you need in this department, but it’s worth saying here. If you are using a tool or an instrument on a piece of equipment carrying electricity, it has to have the appropriate insulation properties for the voltage in hand. Perhaps you have to have experienced insulation breakdown in a cheap test probe at first hand to truly understand this point.

As always, in terms of refinement, petrol or diesel drivers need to recalibrate their minds, not least because the near silence (bar wind noise) below 2000rpm stands in contrast to the engine noise that intrudes thereafter. At a cruise the peace is notable, while if you push on the arrival of engine noise is a momentary surprise rather than a permanent irritation. A sub-8.0sec 0-62mph time underlines that this is a reasonably pacy hatch too.

Not sure where did you get “…A quick looks shows BT137 will burn 20W to switch a 5A load…”. BT137 has the following listed: On State voltage (Vt) @It=10A is 1.3V, max 1.65, so the worst case is 16.5W, more realistic 13W. Not to laugh at, but still not close to 20W

I will not put all the money on the bet, but this one might be indeed one of the solutions: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/328/lnk302_304-306-179954.pdf if you want something “all-in-one”. I prefer a separate external PSU for many reasons, including circuit separation and protection. You can find 5V and 3.3V SMPS DIN rail mouting ones for decent prices.

The third incident was also while I was working for the welding repair company. I had a previously perfectly working high-pot tester and needed to test the insulation on a transformer. The tester itself failed and shorted to the case – and I took 11kv AC to the fingers just by turning the power on. That stung a bit, but I got a new high-pot out of the deal, so a net positive.