This robot uses AI to find Waldo, thereby ruining Where’s Waldo | 19mm Momentary Push Button

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The crimp terminals I am using are rated for 24A, and I am using a ratcheting crimping tool. I have checked, and therefore I do not believe you.

MLVs come in various chip form sizes, and are capable of dissipating significant surge energy for their size. Thus, they suit both data-line and power-supply transient-suppression applications.

This is the sort of topic where it wouldn’t be a great idea to be dismissive of textbooks and/or formal instruction. Often local power line crews will put on a safety demonstration at hamfests. No doubt they would do the same for the various builder/hacker/maker spaces

AC is safer than DC. You can let go of two AC terminals but not DC as DC keeps your muscles clenched. AC doesn’t.

Pools have come a long way. It used to be you had a pump and if you were lucky it had a mechanical timer switch on it. That was it. Now you have digital controllers and spa jets and heaters. You can even get them that connect to your home automation system. If your pool isn’t new enough to do that already, you can get a range of add-on accessories. For a price. [Rob] paid $500 to get a remote for his pool. It wasn’t even WiFi, just a simple RF remote. In 3 years, the transmitter had burned out ($300 to replace) and he decided he had enough. For $20, [Rob] added MQTT control and monitoring to his pool using an ESP8266. You can see the video description of the project below.

A final benefit of the EVF is that it lets you keep the camera to your eye during video recording, something no other SLR currently offers, although some SLDs do.

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Of course you can use an extra 50Hz transformer, you do not need voltage regulation. But you need power (DC) for motors and electronics. If you have already a switching PSU (which are often even cheaper than big heavy iron/copper transformers of the same power) the extra power capability for the heater does not cost very much. Lets say you will not get the 120VA transformer for the price difference of lets say a 80W PSU vs. a 200W PSU. Also you can switch the DC with a single MOSFET.

So here follows the first in a series on how to approach electronic devices containing high voltages, and live to tell the tale. By “high voltages” we mean anything up to mains voltages, and those directly derived from them such as the few hundred volts rectified DC you’ll find in a switch-mode PSU. For multi-kilovolt EHT you’ll have to wait for another article, because that is an entire subject in itself. We’ll mention these higher voltages in passing, but their detail is best left for a Hackaday colleague with more pertinent experience.

For the sake of simplicity in this example, assume the objective is to select a low-voltage dc disc MOV for the following circuit conditions and requirements:

Xiaomi claims a screen-to-body ratio of 93.4 percent, and has cut down on the “chin” at the bottom of the display by nearly 4.5 millimeters compared to the Mi Mix 2S.