TRIACs have very low junction voltage / resistance especially when compared to the load they are driving. When they are overloaded they heat causing the the junction voltage to increase rapidly causing exponentially more power to be dissipated by the TRIAC instead of the load. This whole process seems to take about a nanosecond and ends with a small amount of the plastic casing still attached to the legs.
The only thing I would add would be a (redundant) circuit breaker (Airpax, Heinemann, et al) on each input that was two-pole with a common trip bar. That, and I would build it in a metal enclosure.
The device uses a triac to do the switching, and is optically isolated from mains. Be sure to check out the video after the break to see the device in action. All in all, this could be a great way to get started with home automation, or maybe just do something simple like build a timer for your floor lamp. Anything is possible!
First, some background. I am a design engineer working on safety of life critical hardware design and technology development for a military application. I noticed this project a while back, and I invested some thought into how I would design the system.
If you read carefully the related articles you will find that this module is mainly designed to switch lights aka lighbulbs. A 8A Triac is more than suitable to switch any standard household lamp. Please check the bigger one in your house. How big it is? 100W? 200W? 300W? Average value in probably in 99% of the cases between 40 to 100W. Anybody can to the math.
▲ 系统工程:自动化系统开发设计、调试、低压配柜、变频器控制系统、PLC自动控制系统、各种节能成套系统。
Xiaomi has announced the Mi Mix 3, the latest entry in its series of full-screen flagship phones. It’s yet another high-end Chinese device with a huge screen-to-body ratio achieved by hiding the front-facing cameras on a sliding mechanism — no notch required. Unlike the Vivo Nex or Oppo Find X, however, the slider isn’t powered by motors. CEO Lei Jun compares the design to older sliding phones and suggests that it’ll be relaxing just to play with.
In cases of energy shortfall, we could apply 3% or 6% voltage reduction from our central control, to shed load. (along with asking manufacturers to reduce load, part of their contract) Before real load shedding, switching off supplies. I know. I was a control engineer. Admittedly a few years ago
There are numerous safe ways to do this, without reinventing the wheel. Like so: http://www.omega.com/pptst/HCS_HEATER.html (Need 240 mains? Hook two in series.) Precision control circuit can be found in the Data sheet for LM34 temp sensor. Uses an LM10 combo op-amp/ref to switch a solid state relay. Doc
I have to say up front that I’ve never been a fan of EVFs. While they do permit much more information overlay than conventional optical viewfinders, I’ve always felt that EVFs’ limitations have outweighed their advantages. In particular, EVFs usually have limited sensitivity and dynamic range, not to mention low refresh rates and poor resolution when compared with the view through a conventional optical viewfinder.
I’ve been shocked a few times. First time, a friend and I were changing out outlets in a room in his house. He shut off the breaker for the room, and I watched him plug a lamp in and test it. I found out the HARD way, that each side of the room was ran through a different breaker… I got a quick jolt and the gerber tool I was using catapulted across the room…
I am going to try a rheostat on the input voltage to see if I can drop the rectifier output voltage to around 30v. Right now it works but will pop a15A wall circuit breaker after 15-20 seconds. But it is a super strong magnet. Limiting the current is the key I believe. More later
This robot uses AI to find Waldo, thereby ruining Where’s Waldo | Lrd12 Overload Relay Related Video:
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