Tom Baker is turning his long-lost Doctor Who movie script into a novel | 220v Contactor Relay

Theres a homebrew 80vdc @150amp supply in my cnc converted bridgeport, that runs the entire dc rail for the steppers and other stuff, its always scared me slightly because I know that the big transformer its based on has a mag field and when it collapses and it has some massive smoothing capacitors to boot, so I have masses of isolation distance everywhere the dc side runs and I disable the transformer with a dedicated switch while working in the cabinet of it. I had a stepper driver supplied directly off the rail go bad and it just had a large hole where it used to be. I just imagine that was a bit of me if I get tempted to get sloppy with it. I’ve never put much thought into getting electrocuted by a welder, I’ve tickled my finger with my 3 phase tig set more than a few times getting too close and giving a nice easy starting path to the startup pulse. Maybe I should, I’ve got a massive 3 phase 380v transformer tig that can do 375amp dc, that tends to throw all the breakers out while its saturating its massive transformer with the inrush current… I try to treat mains voltage with the respsect it deserves. Its a killer, but if you take sensible precautions and steps you can avoid it being you it happens to.

About ten years ago, when the first cheap DVD players came into Australia from China, there was a huge failure rate due to this issue. The cause was almost always blown caps, and they could be fixed by up spec’ing the voltage tolerance for the caps in the supply.

The one thing some users might find distracting about the Sony A33′s EVF is the RGB "rainbows" you can see when either your eye, the subject, or the camera is moving rapidly. Each pixel of the display shows its red, green, and blue information sequentially, so if the viewfinder image is moving rapidly relative to your eye, you’ll see red, green, and blue ghosts or trails around bright objects. I didn’t notice this at all until someone pointed it out to me, but after they did, it became unreasonably annoying for a while. After a couple of days of shooting with the camera, though, I again became largely unaware of it and now have to deliberately look for it to be aware of the effect.

Then again, like other counterfeit assemblies…. they might rely on the installer using a 25A relay for a 15A load which is why they put a counterfeit 16A triac inside which the manufacturer actually put a die of a 12A because he knows his user will de-rate the max current anyway.

FYI: The bare minimum requirement is AWG #20 wires for chassis wiring 11A which is what’s needed for 100W at 12V. I wouldn’t exactly call that a thick wire. While you can get away with using thinner wires fopr the AC heater, but you’ll need the wire to be able to carry the current defined by your fuse and have thick enough insulation for the voltage rating. So at the end of the day, the overall diameter for the AC heater still ended up being thicker.

Dust particles are often flammable, in high densities this means they’re explosive. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dust_explosion

The earth ground connection won’t prevent you from being shocked unless it’s a GFI outlet. The soil resistivity in most places in the US doesn’t cause enough current to flow to earth ground to trip a normal breaker. Bonded ground systems are better, but if the bond from neutral to earth ground is far away from the short it might still not trip a normal breaker.

You completely missed the point. The safety regulatory doesn’t change regardless of the *perception* or the *knowledge* of the person using it. If you are selling a product or publishing a design, you may ended up being liable for the end users. Even if you are the person that design and build your own stuff, plugging in something not certified pretty much voids your home insurance if it happens to be the cause of a fire etc. On the other hand if you are playing with ELV from UL etc approved/certified supplies, you are covered.

The spark-gap Tesla coil itself was

If you can tell me the relation between MOC max or peak amps values and the switched power done by the MAINS BT137 Triac I will be more than happy to hear….

From instances I have seen in forums of melting outlets, they aren’t dopes. The bottom line is 120 V is terrible for power delivery and it is really unfortunate that US adopted that level. Often times it is the outlet failing even when used in specs, either from poor install, cheap outlet, etc.Also, they get damaged, it might have been fine when someone started using it, but they miss the damage.

Didn’t have to purchase any EVSE. My 2016 Volt came with one, that was L2 capable. You only needed to make a pigtail. It’s actually a Clipper Creek. So, for about $60, I installed a NEMA L6-20 outlet, with 20amp double-pole breaker, and 8 ft of 10-4 wire that I had left over. $20 got me a permit.