Tom Baker is turning his long-lost Doctor Who movie script into a novel | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

It does seem to be an old electrician’s habit, never leaving the leads plugged into amps. Somebody commented on one of Big Clive’s videos about him doing that. Seems like a good habit to get into.

Turns out my old GTX670 draws a lot more power than my new GTX1080 and, based on napkin calculations, brought my total power draw a bit too close to my 750W PSU’s limit. (200W CPU doing me no favors…)

I’ve spent four to eight years in apprentice school learning how to plan, install, inspect, and repair electrical products. Don’t insult my intelligence by implying otherwise.

I think we are past the early adopter phase. The general public will not want to use only 40 miles a day. We have charged our volt and ELR at 110, but I did add a 50 amp plug to our new house. I just purchased a JuiceBox EVSE. So I get faster charging now and I’m set for our next vehicle too.

Experts suggest buying an EVSE that can produce at least 30 amps of power. Generally speaking this type of unit would be able to add around 30 miles of operating range to a given battery pack per hour. Some EVs can get along with fewer amps, but buying more capability than you may need today makes the installation “future proof” should you eventually trade in the vehicle for a model that can handle the added capacity. However, if you’re planning on using a 30-amp unit you may need to upgrade the line’s circuit breaker to one that’s rated for at least 40 amps.

This device – and any high-powered device that’s home-built – should be regularly inspected to insure that the wiring is not degrading due to heat caused by increased resistance. That’s why the chassis has a clear lid.

GM quickly realized this and changed the default to 8 A charging to prevent fires, and many others limit at 10 or 11 A.

Also I have seen opto-couples where the pins have been spayed out to gain an extra 0.1″ between the rows of pins.

Steady in the dark. The Sony A33′s Handheld Twilight (HHT) mode uses multiple shots and micro-alignment to permit handheld exposures even in very dark conditions. This was a very dark bar scene, but the shot came out sharp enough for a 5×7 print. It could have used some exposure adjust and (definitely) a different white balance setting. Exposure is auto-only in HHT mode, but the similar multi-frame NR mode gives full control.

1. A hot-neutral reversal will supply the 208/240V relay with 120V. It will make an angry buzzing noise but won’t close. Two hot-neutral reversals will supply it with 0 volts.

The operation of the potential relay is based on the increase in back-electro-motive force (back-EMF) or a bucking voltage that is generated across the start winding as the motor increases in speed. The large metal mass of the motor’s rotor turning at high speeds with motor windings in close proximity has a voltage-generating effect.

I have never understood why North America stayed in their stupid 120V system, that uses very high currents over inferior aluminium wires, connected with lose screwcaps and fuses that may explode out of the wall. And it would be probably federal crime and against the code to use proper copper wires connected with good push lock blocks and DIN rail mounted fuses and contactors…