The heater from the inner layer of the PCB still needs to exit to the surface using vias or plated through holes some how. So the contacts are still exposed. You might use a TRIAC in something like the phase control in a dimmer switch as a PWM to control heater power, but the peaks voltages at the output are still at line voltages levels.
In the second week, I’m not even sure why I did it, I was working on a pinball machine and measured 240V between the chrome plates on the front of the 2 pinball machines to either side of the one I was working on. The electrician had “forgotten” to hook any of the earths for the whole building.
I think Brian’s point was that if the bond between the earth ground and the neutral return of the incoming premises power isn’t good enough, then the short to earth might *not* trip the breaker. Of course, it would likely start a fire instead (the resistance may not be zero, but it will be low enough to sink a great deal of power in most cases and a 15A breaker will tolerate a couple THOUSAND watts), but I think that if you can’t trust that the building is to code, then all bets are off.
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Rather than rest after establishing products in every major sector of the interchangeable lens digital camera market — APS-C SLR, full-frame SLR, and most recently single-lens direct view — Sony is boldly striking out to create yet another category with the launch of its very first translucent mirror cameras. The main goal of the new design: achieving unprecedented autofocus and capture speed from an APS-C sensor, interchangeable-lens, consumer digital camera. Comprising a new SLT series, the Sony Alpha SLT-A33, A55, and A55V are closely related cameras sharing the same basic design, with only a few internal features as major differences.
Of course you can use an extra 50Hz transformer, you do not need voltage regulation. But you need power (DC) for motors and electronics. If you have already a switching PSU (which are often even cheaper than big heavy iron/copper transformers of the same power) the extra power capability for the heater does not cost very much. Lets say you will not get the 120VA transformer for the price difference of lets say a 80W PSU vs. a 200W PSU. Also you can switch the DC with a single MOSFET.
My first thought was that the terminals were over torqued rotating the blocks, stretching the pins, and tearing the pads.
I love the concept and the build. But does potting with epoxy resin have enough strength to hold magnets in place? I did not see any mechanical fastners holding magnets in place . If epoxy cracks I see magnets pulling out of metal bracket and failure .Over to someone with engineering experience please.
Keep in mind that extension cords running from a generator can power anything that plugs into a wall socket, but not hard-wired appliances such as a furnace, sump pump or central air conditioner. If you want to run any of those during an outage, you will need to have a licensed electrician install a manual transfer switch (it looks like a mini circuit breaker) next to your main electrical panel. A heavy-duty cord from the generator plugs into the switch and allows you to power select circuits in your home. Prices vary depending on your market. In Neale’s case, she paid about $1,200 for the switch and installation, more than for the generator, which cost about $550.
I do not recommend diy 120/240 volt AC in this application. While you are correct that the higher voltage allows lower current draw, you are not proposing limiting the current, which can be very dangerous. If your hands were wet with sweat, you would act as a lower resistance path to any available ground you might be touching. In much the same way a hot dog will cook with 120 AC poet applied to each end, you will do considerable damage to your skin, muscle, and fat tissues along the current path. Use DC power, a larger wire, and maintain the safety margin. One trip to the ER will buy many hundreds of meters of wire and plenty of DC power supplies. Oh, and by the way, I’m an electrical engineer.
The Sony A33 offers a lot of control for shooting contrasty subjects. Dynamic Range Optimizer (DRO) adjusts contrast and brightness to optimize the camera’s use of available dynamic range. Auto HDR modes use three quick shots to cover an amazing tonal range. (The shot on the right represents the maximum range of 6 EV.)
I’m not claiming this is a new phenomenon (I’ve done some stupid things with electricity myself, before the www was even invented) but we know that the media isn’t always rational about these matters.
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