Toyota Corolla 2.0 hybrid hatchback 2019 review | 19mm Momentary Push Button

One of the best ways to show your appreciation is telling your family and friends about me. My business thrives on word-of-mouth recommendations.

While we didn’t encounter any exposure accuracy issues in our lab tests, I had a little trouble with the Sony A33 and A55′s exposure system in the field. Under bright sunlight, I was generally shooting with -0.3 EV of exposure compensation dialed in. Looking at my photos on the computer later, it seemed that many of them really could have used -0.7 EV. The overexposure bias seemed fairly universal under bright lighting, regardless of whether the subject itself was low- or high-key. Shots under lower lighting didn’t seem to have the same issue, though.

I came here to post those two points! The corollaries to 1) are that should something go wrong, you have a chance if there is someone else there who knows CPR. I like mandatory CPR training for lab workers because of this. AEDs are good too. Rules against playing with things that can shock you while working alone are also good, but much harder to follow–I’ve spent decades working alone in research labs. CPR fails way more often than not, but electrical shocks are an important exception to that rule. And you almost got the extra credit for correctly spelling arrhythmia.

How about trying to say something accurate for a change? Almost everything you say lately is provably WRONG.

Experts suggest buying an EVSE that can produce at least 30 amps of power. Generally speaking this type of unit would be able to add around 30 miles of operating range to a given battery pack per hour. Some EVs can get along with fewer amps, but buying more capability than you may need today makes the installation “future proof” should you eventually trade in the vehicle for a model that can handle the added capacity. However, if you’re planning on using a 30-amp unit you may need to upgrade the line’s circuit breaker to one that’s rated for at least 40 amps.

OK … back to the task at hand. Anyone care to comment on how a toaster oven is wired? How about a thermal blanket? None of these use a 12V or 24V switching power supply brick, so how do they do it???

two suggestions… 1. bridge it and use as a 230v rectified/ cleaned up DC as per your choice 2. as with pop up toasters and hairdriers, use convection and radiation instead of conduction. use a hot coil and duct the hot air for circulation under the bed.

Of course, you’re still responsible for your work, but you don’t automatically forfeit your insurance just because you added an extra lamp and it caught on fire.

There is no mention of what powers the module here, and I suspect it is a regular 5V, isolated SMPS. @RobHeffo suggests transformerless power supply, but that is not a good idea, for the current drawn by the ESP the capacitor will be too big. There are alternatives, like this guy, LNK306 : http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/328/lnk302_304-306-179954.pdf . It is not isolated, but the thing is probably the best cost option for such a device.

And keep in mind that EVSEs are a continuous duty device. As such, you need to derate them from the circuit’s rating by 20%. So you should only use 12A on a 15A rated circuit. And you should only do that if you’re confident that there’s nothing else pulling significant current on EITHER circuit besides your EVSE.

It’s a Prius for private buyers. It’s got one of the best drivetrains and most sophisticated chassis in the class, looks ok inside and out, no doubt usual exemplary quality and reliability.

Yup. That’s how you install an outlet for a big dryer or a welder or something than needs the extra power. Never occurred to me to utilize it for a computer PSU, but I suppose it’s pretty nice when you need to squeeze out every little bit of efficiency.