FYI: The bare minimum requirement is AWG #20 wires for chassis wiring 11A which is what’s needed for 100W at 12V. I wouldn’t exactly call that a thick wire. While you can get away with using thinner wires fopr the AC heater, but you’ll need the wire to be able to carry the current defined by your fuse and have thick enough insulation for the voltage rating. So at the end of the day, the overall diameter for the AC heater still ended up being thicker.
I flashed Tasmota firmware onto the Sonoff, and configured GPIO2 as a counter, and I now have the whole setup reporting to Node Red, which switches the pumps on and off on schedule, or as desired. I’m quite chuffed with the result, although now I need to learn a lot more about how Node Red works! 
I really do like the C-Max, as it’s a compelling value, and it actually drives fairly well in my opinion.
Not at all. One lumberjack pushes while the other pulls, and they’re both pushing and pulling against the ground. It’s fits perfectly.
Pick-up voltage usually occurs when the motor has reached about three-fourths of its speed. The start winding is still in the back-EMF circuit, keeping the relay’s coil energized while the motor is running at full speed.
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Level-2 isn’t required for charging at home, but it sure makes life a lot easier. I wouldn’t use or recommend using a standard outlet for Level-1 charging unless it’s a dedicated circuit with it’s own breaker. With the larger battery packs these days Level-2 charging is becoming more popular if not necessary. Consult your electrician, but I personally think pulling wiring that will handle less than 50 amps is a waste of time. You can use a smaller circuit breaker, but the wiring needs to be robust. Most modern homes built in the last 10 years or so should have a 200 amp panel anyway, so you aren’t going to notice an EV plugged in. Again, consult a qualified, licensed electrician. Also, before you let your ‘handy’ brother-in-law install your charging station, be aware if there is a fire from improper installation, your home owner’s insurance will most likely NOT pay for the event.
The mechanisms that take place if a big shock happens (big = high current, not voltage) is that it cooks the muscle so even though you sort of feel OK within a few hours the blood coagulates, you start to ache like you would not believe and you suffer a horrible painful death.
It turns out that the live viewfinder image doesn’t cover the full screen in 3:2 aspect mode, but is normally confined to roughly the central 80% of the available display area. When you switch to the Fn menu display, though, you need to press your eye pretty close to the viewfinder eyepiece to be able to see the menu items on the left and right sides of the screen. I found that with my eyeglasses on, I had to shift my eye to the left or the right to see the menu entries on the sides, or else really mash my eyeglasses against the eyecup. Switching to 16:9 aspect ratio expands the image to fill the left and right of the EVF’s LCD as well, which is also problematic for eyeglass wearers.
I haven’t seen you around the traps here before and you have put in a good effort so welcome aboard.
In the old days, we were always careful to remind readers to purchase a second battery along with their camera, but in recent years, battery life has become much less of a concern than it once was. Not so with the Sony A33, though: Unless you intend it only for light snap-shooting, consider the purchase of a second battery mandatory.
Whether you call it neutral or ground is (I suppose) not important, what is important is that there is no distinction between neutral and ground until you are at the customer’s meter.
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