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Toyota Corolla 2.0 hybrid hatchback 2019 review | Lrd12 Overload Relay

Factory supplied R305 Motor Starter -
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#PreferLinux mentioned switching off at the mains socket. Do that, but still test; that saved me once when the switch was faulty. Yes, that socket was replaced, pronto!

I believe two-man saws bite both directions. And if they don’t, then pretend that they do for the analogy. :)

i built the rig that day. I put an ammeter with max hold on a circuit, plugged the circuit into a known 20 amp connection, and put a load on the circuit that simulated the instrument. Turn it on, 22 amps max hold, 13 amps nominal.

Remember that, across the same resistance, power goes up with the square of voltage; 120v RMS can deliver 100x the wattage of a 12v supply, and 240v delivers 400x.

Factory making Low Voltage Light Sockets -<br />
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Usually called a Residual Current Device (RCD) or Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker (ELCB). Usually set on 30mA, but they take a small time to trip, which is dependent on how much current is leaking into the poor unfortunate 3D printerer. Much better than nothing, but not 100% guaranteed to save your life. I’d sooner leave mains voltage alone for things I’m tinkering with. I only mess with the mains for simple jobs, and then I’m very cautious.

I was in sixth or seventh grade, playing with a transformer with a 540 V secondary, when I accidentally grabbed one cllp lead too many. The current was flowing from one hand to the other, and I could not let go. Eventually–I’m sure the subjective time was much greater than the actual time–I was able to use my legs to knock myself off of the lab stool onto the concrete floor. Hitting the floor felt so good!

Whether you call it neutral or ground is (I suppose) not important, what is important is that there is no distinction between neutral and ground until you are at the customer’s meter.

I was looking for a high power capable latching type to stop my old car from draining its battery… Came across this.

Factory making Low Voltage Light Sockets -<br />
 LC1D Contactors  - Simply Buy

This is a fantastic idea: a regular PCB, that gummy conformal coat over any solder joints, solder mask is fine for insulation if you space your traces correctly, and an SSR to turn it on or off. If you have a problem with the thing getting too hot, set a maximum with a variac on the input and you’ll get slower ramps at lower voltage but lower maxima. This is not unsafe, I would think it a fine idea, and I may have a different bed material in mind too.

This doesn’t make any sense, why not use an extension cord with the 220 already in the house? A 6 or 8 gauge cord for 75 feet should be perfectly fine.

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I do not claim infallibility. I invite criticism of my designs. But I insist on that criticism be based on my work rather than be mere FUD.


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