Turn a wall outlet into a wireless charger with the Legrand Radiant | 220v Contactor Relay

They make “plate” heaters that are metal plate looking thing with a couple of stud terminals sticking out of them as well.

This device – and any high-powered device that’s home-built – should be regularly inspected to insure that the wiring is not degrading due to heat caused by increased resistance. That’s why the chassis has a clear lid.

Oh… As for power meter… OpenEVSE II – my own take on OpenEVSE – has an isolated voltmeter and an ammeter in it. There’s development firmware being worked on right now that keeps a running kW-hr log on the display. Very handy.

If you’re invested in the Alexa ecosystem, the Amazon Smart Plug is super reliable, dead simple to set up, and works with most electrical products you would find in the home. Be sure to heed the warnings found in the in-box manual!

• Calculate how much power you need: Generators are sized based on the power they provide an average home. Go through your home and identify the lights, electronics and appliances you want to run and the watts they consume. That’s simple enough to figure out with lamp or light fixture that takes a 60-watt bulb, and tougher to determine with your refrigerator. Aiello says to look for the data plate found on most appliances. It should tell you the volts and amps. Then do the math: Volts multiplied by amps equals watts. Or go online and look up the specs. Generac also has an online portable-generator sizing calculator you can use as a guide.

I’ll try to fix your old item if I can, but I might ask you to have a new replacement on hand just in case. Don’t skip the shopping trip because you’re banking on me being able to fix the old one. If it’s beyond repair, I’ll need to come back (and charge you) for a second visit once you get to the store instead of finishing the first time around, ultimately costing you more. You’re better off buying it and returning it if we don’t need it. Just don’t bother with these 32 home upgrades that are a waste of money.

I use a variety of a/c and dc fostek ssrs. I have yet to have a problem, but i use them in circuits where 50% of their rated current is the absolute maximum they will ever see.

Once you’ve  established these ground rules you can then tailor your approach based on a realistic expectation of the risk involved. This process might seem rather long-winded, but in practice it should only require a moment’s thought. It’s infinitely better to take that moment to think than get an unexpected and possibly lethal high-voltage electric shock.

A user calling himself "Tango" over at the MyNissanLEAF forum posted them yesterday saying, "I wasn’t sure if anyone posted pics of the insides yet, so while they were [installing it], I took a couple of pictures of the innards."

The run and start capacitors provide the phase shift for starting torque because their capacitances add up when wired in parallel. In fact, both capacitors are wired in series with the start winding and in parallel with the run winding.

Nah, they’re just creating the latest OpenSource platform as Arduino LCC, Arduino iso, Arduino Inc and Arduino & Co. fight over which is the real Shady.

We first saw this feature in Sony’s DSC-TX1 and DSC-WX1 in mid-2009. Since then, it’s been mimicked by other manufacturers, but none seem to do it as well as Sony. In Handheld Twilight mode, the camera captures up to 6 shots in rapid succession, micro-aligns them with each other, and then adds them all together. The net result is that you can hand-hold ridiculously long exposures and still get sharp results, with very low image noise to boot. Combine this with Sony’s SteadyShot image stabilization and sharp handheld photos at half-second exposure times are feasible.