Mains powered heated glass plates are common place in catering, same deal as a car back window, the heating wires are on the other side from the “working surface” these things can tolerate touching and even fluid spills, why reinvent the wheel, the solution is already commercially avaliable.
I actually also just added remote control to my pool, using a Sonoff 4CH pro. In my case, I have 3 devices I want to control. The pool pump itself, a water feature close to the pool, and the pool lighting. I also incorporated a flow rate sensor into the pump to make sure that the pump was not working too hard (as can happen when there is too much debris in the pool weir basket!). To drive the flow rate sensor, I tapped into the 5V supply before the 3.3V regulator, as the sensor was specced to run on 5V-24V, or thereabouts. I also inserted a level converter in between the flow rate signal and the Sonoff, even though it should be OK with 5V. I didn’t feel like taking chances.
Often, the downside to those positives would be an overly-hard ride, but the MacPherson front and double wishbone rear suspension has been tuned to largely cope with what comes its way. There is a firmness that can translate to bumps and surface breaks unsettling the car, but on these Spanish roads at least, even on larger-than-standard 18-inch wheels, they were decently controlled. While it’s no guarantee of success, the development team tested extensively in the UK. There is also an option to fit a five-way adaptive system that includes damping alterations, opening up everything from eco and comfort modes to increasingly sporty ones to be considered – although you’d need to be dedicated to use them all.
Agreed…. I used to have a small plastic box in our workshop. It had two copper contacts on opposite surfaces, and a 9V battery, relay and tilt switch inside, and a Caution High Voltage sticker on it,
In some places, you can get 120 and 240, or you could wire up a large transformer at your mains distribution board and get what ever voltage you wish. Might need to call the local electrician to not loose any legal battles if the house burns down.
The gate resistor will eventually short to the trace after so many cycles. It may take a while, but it will eventually happen. We had that problem years ago with a product. Resistor has to be lifted up above the trace. Traces and such seem fine for 120VAC for low current loads. Wouldn’t pass muster overseas.
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Is anyone else bored of these manufacturer-supplied "scoop" shots of vehicles with a bit of swirly wrap stuck to them?
Heat pumps are good as pre-warmers but it’s hard to get really hot water from one without wasting a lot of electricity in the process as you exceed the “point of diminishing returns”. Natural Gas is still the cheapest most efficient way to heat water because it’s fairly easy to make a 95% or better efficiency burner. In Canada you’d likely have to go geothermal which in most cases is nothing but a heat pump hooked to an underground water loop
It’s not voltage that kills you, it is current acoss the chest ie heart. Hence so called medical coils of the 19th century and high frequency tesla coils and drawing arcs to your skin that do not kill you. I knew a TV engineer that tested high voltage triplers for CRT TV’s by drawing an arc to his finger. The path is the issue and the current available.
SSRs can actually contain what is used here: optocoupler+triac or they may use optocoupler+mosfet. Just like individual triacs you will find that they suffer from the same issue: high power dissipation. A quick looks shows BT137 will burn 20W to switch a 5A load, I see 6W for the first 10A SSR I encounter. This is too much to dissipate in a small junction box isolated inside a wall. Meanwhile, a 10A relay will dissipate maximum 2.5W through the 0.1ohm contacts.
Heating is a function of power loss, which varies by the square of the voltage drop and inversely with the resistance. Current is a fallout of the voltage drop across the resistance. While typically stated as I*I*R losses, getting that “I” to be a big number with a low input voltage means that R has to also be low, which decreases power. Requiring a low R for the heating element magnifies the power losses in the rest of the circuit, where heat isn’t desired.
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