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“Main Power” means different voltage in different places. Where I am the mains is 240 Volts and circuit layout is not acceptable for this voltage. I doubt it would even be acceptable for lower Voltage.

NEC article 440 was added because air conditioning and refrigeration systems are different from typical loads, like lights and heaters. Air conditioner compressor and fan motors are largely inductive (magnetic) loads and have different characteristics than purely resistive circuits. Article 440 has specific guidelines for HVAC and refrigeration equipment manufacturers to follow when writing the equipment data tags as well as for electricians when sizing conductors.

Interesting idea. You don’t need a 3D printer for this though. Conductive strips or simple wire should work fine.

The rest of the circuit would be built on the backside, with judicious use of surface mount electronics rated for miltemp operation (to 125C). Standard connectors from Samtec or Molex can handle the current drive easily, with no problems from the heat. Add an acrylic conformal coat on the backside, or perhaps potting the electronics, and you can make the entire module one single brick module.

You need to learn how to read a datasheet and understand the terms – without an understanding it won’t do you any good.

Finally, only consider charging units that have been tested and certified for safety by an independent source like Underwriters Laboratory (UL). And if you’re having a charger installed outdoors, make sure it’s rated for that purpose.

I don’t know about anywhere else, but in North America, power enters the home via two 120V hot and one neutral. The two 120V hot legs are out of phase with each other, and when combined, you get 240V. So, from the breaker panel, you can pull 120V or 240V, depending on the type of breaker you insert at a given position. Some large appliances (water heaters, central AC units, electric stoves, large power tools) are 240V in North America, but most everything else is designed for a single leg 120V feed. Then just to make things even more complicated, large industrial businesses often have three phase 480V for the really big equipment.

It’s *mostly* read-only. They usually have a LED for power-on indication. You could stick something to the front to detect that, if you needed a response. Tho for things like lights, usually the user will press the button again if they don’t come on the first time.

My testimony : 230VAC doesn’t kill if you’re lucky. Lots of people died on 230VAC (Claude François….)

I’m surprised no one mentioned how Mattias Wandel mounted the SSR on a piece of sheet metal (pretending it will be a heat sink), then mounted it on a water _heater_. I know the heater is insulated so it really shouldn’t be radiating any heat, but wouldn’t it have made more sense to mount the SSR on the cold water inlet pipe? You want to heat the water anyway… When I saw his first video showing off the project I said to myself that’s not going to end well. I’m surprised it lasted this long.

Adjusting settings via the Fn menu is generally a good experience. A very nice touch is that you can use the up/down/left/right directions of the 4-way controller to move the cursor between Fn menu items, and then use the front control dial to adjust the settings. This is nice because it lets you quickly make a number of Fn settings changes in succession, without having to drop down a menu level for each, or being forced out of the Fn menu between choices. The few exceptions to this are those items with a second level of control, such as multi-shot ISO or the tweak adjustments for white balance settings. In those cases, you need to explicitly select the menu item via the OK button, and then use the left/right keys to make the needed adjustment. The only exit at that point is to hit the OK button again, which unfortunately drops you out of the Fn menu entirely.

It is often a surprise to see how other people react to mains electricity when they encounter it in a piece of equipment. As engineers who have dealt with it both personally and professionally for many years it is easy to forget that not everyone has had that experience. On one hand we wince at those who dive in with no fear of the consequences, on the other we are constantly surprised at the number of people who treat any item with more than a few volts in it as though it was contaminated with radioactive anthrax and are scared to even think about opening it up.