VLC is blacklisting recent Huawei devices to combat negative app reviews | Lrd12 Overload Relay

In my experiences, TRIACs fail shorted more often than explode. We have a failsafe of cutting off a mechanical relay in case it happens. Exploded TRIACs do happen though, in the rare case when the load has high leakage to earth, which we don’t have ground fault detection on our devices at the moment. TRIAC we use is rated for 40AMPS @ 600V though for industrial temperature control applications.

The real problem with mains voltages is that somewhere, some day, some bonehead will manage to fry himself – and the media will blame the maker movement for it. I’ve already seen far too many absolute beginners planning to wire up their home appliances to an Arduino as their first project…

In reviewing my experience with the Sony A55 and A33, it’s interesting to find so many of my notes and so much of my attention directed to the viewfinder display. Were I not already so familiar with Sony’s multi-shot exposure technology, the camera’s multi-shot features would doubtless have commanded more of my attention, as they’re worthy features indeed. That said, though, the viewfinder turned out to be absolutely integral to my experience with the camera.

Window AC units blast for hours at time and use massive amounts of energy. An extension cord—and usually even sharing the circuit powering your AC with something else—overloads the wires. If they get too hot, the wires could short out and start a fire. Make sure the unit gets its own circuit, meaning a switch on your electrical panel dedicated to your AC and nothing else. Here are 11 more home safety risks and how to avoid them.

With a smart charger the EV can be recharged at night and unless you are using electric strip heaters, even a 100 amp service panel can suffice. From 10 pm to 6 am there is no significant electrical demand (only the fridge or the furnace motor) to compete with the 32 amps for the EV. A drawback to L1 charging is having to leave the car plugged in for 3 times as long and having a power cord to trip over in the garage.

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About ten years ago, when the first cheap DVD players came into Australia from China, there was a huge failure rate due to this issue. The cause was almost always blown caps, and they could be fixed by up spec’ing the voltage tolerance for the caps in the supply.

“The Psychopath Test” by Jon Ronson is a great book about it, the guy who invented the checklist now used to diagnose psychopaths, has his pet theory that psychopaths with power are the cause of many of the world’s ills and inequities. His name’s Bob Hare, and he probably knows more about it than most other experts.

I’m renovating my basement, and putting in a 240V line to my garage. Just for something to do, as I don’t have an EV.

L2 is absolutely useful in cold climate, specially when you don’t have a heated garage. Because a very minimalistic L1 level won’t be able to charge much while also having to keep the battery at a functional temperature, more less to preheat the car or the battery at optimal temperature.

I don’t know where your grid is, but in North America, high voltage lines are not 100 kV. 19 kV and 69 kV are typical for local distribution. 115 or 138 kV for intra-city, and 230 or 500 kV for most long-haul lines, not counting the whacky HVDC or EHV stuff.

Meanwhile in my house (uk) we have a street lamp time switch with a single pole switch that looks like it was designed to handle 30A. It is beautifully engineered from brass that increases the on period as the days get shorter, I felt bad hacking it so that it would turn on my water heater for an hour twice a day, a job it has been doing for 17 years now without incident. Electromechanical is by far the best way for high current loads at any voltage as fatcas I’m concerned.