Wallpapers from The Verge | 220v Contactor Relay

If you’re buying an EV, make sure the power outlet or wall-mounted charging station will be located within close proximity to your vehicle’s connecting port. Charger cables usually run from around 15 to 25 feet in length, but that may not be sufficient or desirable if the car’s port is located on the opposite end of the garage from the available power source. You may have to have an electrician extend the service closer to your car’s charging port if that’s the case.

I came here to post those two points! The corollaries to 1) are that should something go wrong, you have a chance if there is someone else there who knows CPR. I like mandatory CPR training for lab workers because of this. AEDs are good too. Rules against playing with things that can shock you while working alone are also good, but much harder to follow–I’ve spent decades working alone in research labs. CPR fails way more often than not, but electrical shocks are an important exception to that rule. And you almost got the extra credit for correctly spelling arrhythmia.

Even if you do go ahead and try to solve your electric issues by yourself, don’t shut off only your electric panel’s main circuit breaker, which is usually the top switch. Turning that off before all the miniature circuit breakers (the smaller switches that control a specific outlet or part of the home) means the entire load of electricity suddenly has nowhere to go, which could overload the panel—and that’s an expensive fix. Shut off each individual circuit first, then turn off the main breaker.

For example, you can assemble a computer and do anything you want with the low-voltage parts, but opening the PSU and fiddling with that is illegal in many parts of the world. IF the device later catches fire and the insurance company finds out it was modified by yours truly, they can deny coverage, and if your neighbor’s house burns along with yours they can sue you etc. etc.

The third incident was also while I was working for the welding repair company. I had a previously perfectly working high-pot tester and needed to test the insulation on a transformer. The tester itself failed and shorted to the case – and I took 11kv AC to the fingers just by turning the power on. That stung a bit, but I got a new high-pot out of the deal, so a net positive.

You really should drop the 110/240 volts statements and use 120/240 volts for residential installs. I don’t think 110 volts has been used since Thomas Edison.

If he ever turns his car on its side so that the car jack is pointed toward ceiling and plugged into the evse as shown, then I’d worry about it.

First, some background. I am a design engineer working on safety of life critical hardware design and technology development for a military application. I noticed this project a while back, and I invested some thought into how I would design the system.

I was looking for a high power capable latching type to stop my old car from draining its battery… Came across this.

I disagree, I think L1 EVSE represent a real safety concern. People use corroded outdoor outlets, poorly wired outlets, extension cords (without proper checking for damage or heat build up), etc.

For every piece of equipment that lists MOCP and MCA, you are given the breaker size and minimum wire ampacity. As above, the MOCP is usually significantly higher than the MCA, but this is to allow for the spike in amp draw upon motor start.

The potentially game-changing performance of the Sony A33′s EVF overshadows its excellent rear-panel LCD, which is a little unfair: It’s as good an LCD as is found on any other camera, and in at least one sense literally outshines them all. It’s the same widescreen ~920K-dot high-resolution LCD we’ve seen now on a wide range of cameras from a variety of makers, but its implementation on the Sony A33 adds a couple of useful twists. First, of course, it literally twists and rotates, albeit from the bottom of the body, rather than the side. This unfortunately makes it useless for composing self-portraits with the camera mounted on a tripod, but otherwise is quite helpful for getting over-the-head and ground-level shots with ease.