Generally, most LED power supplies are a constant-current type, and are often referred to as LED drivers. These can be purchased as off-the-shelf assemblies containing MOVs to meet lower-level surge requirements.
I do not disagree that this is not the best way to do it. I have only used it for temporary installation, and only when I can frequently inspect everything involved for signs of elevated temperature. At home, I had a licensed electrician install a NEMA 6-50 and a 40A circuit (which we de-rate to 32A for EVSE service) in our garage for our car charging needs.
Because a failure of the sort I have described will not be current limited. You’ll likely start a fire.
One aspect of ac motor protection is the surge-withstand capability of the motor itself. Paragraph 20.36.4 of the NEMA motor generator standard MG-1 defines a unit value of surge as:  u à VL-L (or 0.816 à VL-L) where VL-L is the line-to-line voltage of the ac power system.
The media aren’t rational about anything. Not something you can really do much about, especially by being reasonable. Try not to think about it too much, is probably the best way to cope.
3-phase installations like industrial facilities and some apartments are fed with 208V 3-phase, which provide three phases of 120V to neutral, or 208V phase-to-phase.
As an example, I went to my mom’s place in the mountains, plugged in my Clarity PHEV using a 100 foot 12 gauge extension cord to an outdoor outlet that looked corroded. After an hour I checked the plug and it was hot of course, so I stopped charging, cleaned the outlet thoroughly, plugged it back in and it was cool (or just slightly warm) to the touch along the entire cord and outlet through the charging process. Using the extension cord is dangerous as there is no thermal sensor in the extension cord at the outlet or could be damaged internally. The corroded outlet was dangerous (and could have very likely melted out had I not checked it). The cord can get easily damage.
Take a look at the Lennox air conditioning condensing unit tag on Page 19. Notice that the MCA is 28.6 amps and the maximum fuse or circuit breaker is 50 amps. This means it is allowable to install this unit on a circuit breaker rated at 50 amps and a conductor rated at 28.6 amps, according to the NEC’s NFPA 70.
In cases of energy shortfall, we could apply 3% or 6% voltage reduction from our central control, to shed load. (along with asking manufacturers to reduce load, part of their contract) Before real load shedding, switching off supplies. I know. I was a control engineer. Admittedly a few years ago
This time, though, he says he’ll only change course once the Senate votes on a binding bill. Now, it’s up to McConnell.
Nah, they’re just creating the latest OpenSource platform as Arduino LCC, Arduino iso, Arduino Inc and Arduino & Co. fight over which is the real Shady.
Not always, you have to think on a global scope here before saying generalizations! In the UK a lot of houses are on what they call PME or protected multiple earths, where the earth bond goes back to the substation as a extra conductor. If you are in one of these properties and are not aware of it, and have your own ground system or leakage you can end up being lower impedance than the substation ground and grounding out faults in your neighbors properties which are also on the same bond. Where I am in europe, all the houses are individually bonded to their own low impedance earth, and the inspector comes out with a megga tester and tests its impedance before they will sign you off to connect to the public supply. It has to be below 50ohms total from any gnd pin on any socket in the property I remember from my inspection. I laid a load of mesh subfloor before pouring the floor so I had no problems with meeting spec. A nice low impedance earth will make your rcd and protection devices even more sensitive also.
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