What to Consider When Buying and Installing a Home Electric Vehicle Charging Station | 19mm Momentary Push Button

There are numerous safe ways to do this, without reinventing the wheel. Like so: http://www.omega.com/pptst/HCS_HEATER.html (Need 240 mains? Hook two in series.) Precision control circuit can be found in the Data sheet for LM34 temp sensor. Uses an LM10 combo op-amp/ref to switch a solid state relay. Doc

My friend died of electrocution while on the job. Our mains voltage here is 240V (single phase) or 415V (three phase) and not very forgiving.

But 110/120v A/C? that stuff is baby-play, as long as you realize that you shouldn’t use both hands, or use grounding straps, it just kinda buzzes, I’ve played around with TENS devices that had more (felt) kick than it…

That said, 12A @ 240V is only a little less than the most our Volt will use even on a proper charger, so it’s still a good thing.

Where I do agree that it is under rated, as far as I know, Mathias is an electrical engineer. So he should be able to work with mains, and he should also know better.

1. 25A for 22A? Too close for my comfort. 2. A thin sheet of aluminum is not much of a heat sink. 3. Sitting on top of the hot water heater means ambient temp is going to be a bit higher. 4. Summer in a garage is likely to get hot.

If your electrical panel can’t handle a Level 2 EVSE then chances are it needs replacement anyway. Putting in my ClipperCreek was the push I needed to finally do what I should have done 20 years ago which was to replace my 1960s panel with a modern one. The new panel is much safer than the old one and having a permanent LVSE is increadably convenient. You have a $50-$60K car, it makes no sense not to spend $1K on an EVSE, you paid more than that for the paint on your Model 3. I spent $40K for my Volt, before Fed and State rebates, so another 1K to buy and install a CC was nothing and likewise the $2800 I spent on the new 200A panel isn’t a lot when compared to the price of a Chevy let alone the price of a Tesla.

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You are not understanding something correctly with these statements. You do not want a “hot wire” until you get to where the heat is needed so you have to use thick wires if the voltage is lower between your source and destination if you use a lower voltage.

I thought “residual current circuit breaker” was just the European name for what we call a GFCI in the US.

The first was when I was a wee, messing w/ a big 24v motor w/ weight (read: kickback voltage as it spools down && lots of amperage) and I turned it on w/ my hands on both leads…

At least in the US/Canada/Japan, when you buy an appliance, it comes with a standard (NEMA5 or NEMA1) plug. In Europe and Africa (at least up to a decade or two ago) we often needed to purchase a *plug* every time we bought a device, and play amateur electrician and wire it ourselves (is this still the case?). I’m convinced this is a big reason the horrible standard IEC power entry connector and locale-specific cord even exist.