What to Consider When Buying and Installing a Home Electric Vehicle Charging Station | 220v Contactor Relay

well, originally they were 2 kW transformers (or at least from microwaves that are rated to 2-2.5 kW), and on secondary is wounder stranded thick wire (diametar around 7-8mm)… enought power to melt nails with 3-4 mm diametar…

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“The Psychopath Test” by Jon Ronson is a great book about it, the guy who invented the checklist now used to diagnose psychopaths, has his pet theory that psychopaths with power are the cause of many of the world’s ills and inequities. His name’s Bob Hare, and he probably knows more about it than most other experts.

And don’t trust the 15KV gloves you pick up a Dayton Hamvention for $20. There’s a reason they’re so cheap, unless you certify them they’re just as bad as having nothing at all due to unknown defects and misplaced trust.

I’ve been shocked a few times. First time, a friend and I were changing out outlets in a room in his house. He shut off the breaker for the room, and I watched him plug a lamp in and test it. I found out the HARD way, that each side of the room was ran through a different breaker… I got a quick jolt and the gerber tool I was using catapulted across the room…

Level 2 charging systems come in two basic varieties, plug-in portable and wall-mounted units that are hard-wired directly to a home’s electric service. If you don’t have a closed garage and you’ll be charging the vehicle outside, local codes may require a fixed-mount unit. Otherwise a portable charger requires no professional installation, assuming you’ve added the 240-volt service line. This type can come in handy if you own two homes or will be staying with friends or family in another town and want to take the unit along for charging at your destination.

Image sensor and processor. Of course, the image sensor and processor are also an important part of the speed and image quality of the Sony A33. The Sony SLT-A33 has a newly developed Exmor APS HD CMOS sensor, which has a total resolution of 14.6 megapixels, and an effective resolution of 14.2 megapixels. That’s just slightly below the 16.7 megapixel total resolution of the A55, which yields its effective resolution of 16.2 megapixels.

The LCD improvement I found most the most dramatically useful was the brightness settings. Set to Auto brightness, the camera will brighten or dim the LCD display in response to ambient light. This helps a good bit in bright daylight, but the display still washes out in direct sunlight. If you’re shooting in bright sun, though, check out the Sony A33′s "Sunny Weather" LCD brightness setting. Wow – That’s a really bright display! It does blow out the top end of the display’s tone curve (that is, you won’t see any detail in the highlights in your images in this mode), but this is the first time I can honestly say that I had no trouble viewing a camera’s LCD screen in direct sunlight. It’s a really great feature, although I’m sure it further reduces the Sony A33′s already-short battery life.

The focus voltage on a CRT can wake you up. The shock may not kill you, but falling backwards over a stool can break a limb. I remember working with some Japanese colleagues a long time ago on color displays for IBM mainframes. A young Japanese guy had been sent over to watch our testing and make notes. He didn’t speak a word of English, and to be honest we didn’t warn him very well that the bared card on the tube neck he was investigating was live, and then some.

We drive about 30k miles/year, lots of long trips. After a trip, we usually pull in with 25-50 miles of range remaining. No problem – charging to the normal 80% is < 7 hours.

A relay with its contacts can take some inrush current. I found value’s between 15A and 30A for a typical 10A relay. Some datasheets even specify motor load with FLA and LRA (locked rotor amp, the max. value you get at start up.

Oversizing switching gear is good to some point but instead of relay withstanding surges I would prefer breaker that would protect everything.