What to Consider When Buying and Installing a Home Electric Vehicle Charging Station | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

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At the end of the day all power supplies deserve respect, not least because they’re more likely to kill you by burning your house down than through electrocution.

When I was doing rehab work on old Chicago apartments I would often find electric wires run through abandoned gas lighting pipes, ready made conduit going to where the old gas light fixtures were, not exactly code and very confusing, especially since there were “live” gas pipes mixed up in the walls and ceilings with the ones carrying Mr. 120!

Actually there are checklists, especially for people working on substations and other really high voltage/high energy stuff. But if a moron decides to skip the checklist it won’t help you any. Checklist are not infallible, not even in aviation.

For the sake of simplicity in this example, assume the objective is to select a low-voltage dc disc MOV for the following circuit conditions and requirements:

Experts suggest buying an EVSE that can produce at least 30 amps of power. Generally speaking this type of unit would be able to add around 30 miles of operating range to a given battery pack per hour. Some EVs can get along with fewer amps, but buying more capability than you may need today makes the installation “future proof” should you eventually trade in the vehicle for a model that can handle the added capacity. However, if you’re planning on using a 30-amp unit you may need to upgrade the line’s circuit breaker to one that’s rated for at least 40 amps.

In my college days, designing stage lighting systems for customers, I had a test rig that I used during a sales presentation. The reason I built this is that a customer had his electrician contracted to do the install work (we didn’t do the electrical install, just specification). When I specified 20 Amp breakers and told the customer that they’d be limited unless they upgraded their service, they told me that their guy had taken care of it.

If you had a mains-voltage shock once and got away with it, you were lucky, that doesn’t mean the voltage is safe, you were merely playing a game of Russian Roulette with Ohm’s Law and a low impedance high voltage supply. Your domestic mains can dump the hefty amounts of current your home heating, your cooker, or your electric kettle demands, so if it finds a low resistance path through you then it is going have no problems dumping whatever current Ohm’s Law allows it to through that path. The chances are if it happens to you the path will be a high enough resistance that you’ll only get a very nasty jolt and live to tell the tale, but if it’s not your lucky day the resistance will be low enough that you’re just going to sit on the end of it twitching until the power is turned off, whether you’re alive or not. That’s the gruesome truth. Mess with this stuff and you can die, end of story. You are responsible for keeping yourself safe, and this is not a joke. OK? Now to work!

With the primaries wired together, the magnets are epoxy potted, the business end is faced off cleanly, and the whole thing put to the test. [MakeItExtreme] doesn’t go into control details in the video below, but the website mentions the magnet being powered off a 24V 15A power supply with battery backup in case of mains failure.

I agree. Plus, from my experience using remote controlled outlets, when the 4A inbuilt fuse dies because of reasons, the relay stays intact. O the other hand, I have never seen a light dimmer with blown fuse, just blown triacs.

Pools have come a long way. It used to be you had a pump and if you were lucky it had a mechanical timer switch on it. That was it. Now you have digital controllers and spa jets and heaters. You can even get them that connect to your home automation system. If your pool isn’t new enough to do that already, you can get a range of add-on accessories. For a price. [Rob] paid $500 to get a remote for his pool. It wasn’t even WiFi, just a simple RF remote. In 3 years, the transmitter had burned out ($300 to replace) and he decided he had enough. For $20, [Rob] added MQTT control and monitoring to his pool using an ESP8266. You can see the video description of the project below.

The Sony Alpha A33 uses a 7.2V, 1020mAh InfoLITHIUM battery pack, with part number NP-FW50. Tested to the CIPA standard, the Sony Alpha A33 is rated at the lowest battery life among its SLT-series siblings, with 340 LCD shots, or 270 shots with the EVF. That’s perhaps a little surprising, given that it lacks the built-in GPS receiver of the A55V, has a lower-resolution image sensor yielding less data to process, a reduced shooting speed, and less buffer memory. By way of comparison, the A55V captures 380 shots with the LCD, or 330 shots with the EVF, while the A55 can manage 390 shots on the LCD, or 350 with the EVF.