Who’s really being silenced on Twitter? | 19mm Momentary Push Button

I had my own suggestions further up in the comments here, and I’d like to believe I expressed them respectfully, and TJ addressed them. And, as is appropriate, the article text has an exhortation to not play with HV power without due care.

There is a huge difference between heater and electric motor when it comes to inrush current. But anyway haven’t seen 600A contactor for switching on 60A motor.

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All of these ratings can be found in NEC (NFPA 70) Table 310.15(B)(16) in detail, but as an example, according to this NEC chart, a 6-gauge copper circuit rated at 90°C (194°F) has an ampacity of 75 amps while a 6-gauge aluminum conductor rated at 60°C (140°F) has an ampacity of 40 amps. Of course, there are other considerations in addition to this, but it is clear the rules of thumb we often use can get us in trouble if we aren’t aware that exceptions exist and what those exceptions are.

Rob complains that the board isn’t laid out for 240 VAC — yet I see ample clearance between traces. Other users complain that the board isn’t designed to drive a full 15A load, yet most commercially-available, UL-listed dimmers I’ve seen are rated for 800W or less. The Lutron dimmers I paid almost $30 a pop for only do 600W.

I liked your article. It had a lot of good pointers for others. It may be a good idea to add a red indicator between neutral and ground for the two incoming 120v lines. That way, if the hot and neutral are reversed, the light will come on.

It’s a great idea but a shame it isn’t laid out correctly, The traces on the low voltage side of the opto-couple are too close to the mains voltage and also the trace from resistor R8 to the opto is too close as well.

It doesn’t add up like that. What *does* add up is the power. At 240 volts, you pull twice as much power at 15A.

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You can burn your house down in many different ways. Knocking over a poorly placed candle, or dropping a napkin on the electric stove are much more likely than a fault in the wiring, and the insurance company will pay out just the same. They would have to show that you were grossly negligent.

FR4 is actually quite a good insulator. It’s only real failure is when you have impurities on the surface of the PCB in very high humidity conditions. The impurities will cause the surface tension of the water molecules in air to lower and as this happens the water will condense onto the PCB. The water on the PCB reduces the effective creepage clearance and can cause a flash over or arc.

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