The net result is that, while the Sony Alpha A33 is a fair bit thicker front-to-back than single-lens direct-view (SLD) cameras, which can do away with the bulky mirror box entirely, it’s still an exceptionally small camera by SLR standards. If the handgrip depth is ignored, the Sony A33 is actually just a little smaller than the smallest digital SLR to date, the Olympus E-420. Unlike the smallest SLD cameras, the A33 still includes a built-in electronic viewfinder — and for those SLDs that can accept an optional electronic viewfinder, much of their size advantage over Sony’s SLT-series models is erased once it’s installed. Sony’s A33 thus occupies a comfortable middle ground, sacrificing little of the versatility of a traditional SLR, yet bringing a worthwhile advantage in portability.
Bottom line, while the Sony A33′s EVF doesn’t entirely conquer the challenges of its genre, it goes further in the right direction than any other I’ve experienced to date. Most telling is that I now find myself reluctant to give up its benefits and return to world of purely optical viewfinders once again.
Since GM was having troubles with said DOPES regarding the 2011 VOLT, they quickly redesigned the current and all future units to have an AWG #14 connector cord, while keeping the AWG #16 connector cord to the car – why? – so that the oversized connector cord would extract heat from any overheating defective receptacle.
Why reinvent what is already on the market? There are heating panels beeing sold as accessory for 3d printers already. I just saw a 300x200mm 200W 230VAC silicone heating pad for around 90$. The vendor (multec.de) however clearly states that the installation has to be done by a certified electrician. I’m pretty shure these pads could be sourced a lot cheaper on other sources too. If you think you can just DIY around with 230VAC, make a mistake and hurt/kill somebody or burn down a house, you will be f”cked for life, because no insurance company will cover you. And if you kill yourself and have a family, well, thats not that great for them either. Keep that in mind. I’d rather use a bed made for 48VDC. Powersupplys are abundant for that voltage (standard for a lot of telecom/industrial equipment), reasonably safe to work with compared to 230VAC, and you still get 4 times lower currents (or more power at same current) compared to a 12V bed.
This is called Level 1 charging, and assuming you already have basic electric service in your garage, it’s the cheapest way to go. Unfortunately, it’s also the slowest. Depending on the vehicle and its battery capacity, it can take anywhere from eight to nearly 24 hours to bring its power cells up to a full charge.
Popular brands of EVSEs include ClipperCreek (one of the first companies to get into the home changing business), Siemens, JuiceBox, AeroVironment, and ChargePoint, among others. An online search can help you find a unit that comes with the features and power output that meets both your needs and budget. To make matters easier, you can purchase either of three popular ClipperCreek charging units directly from MyEV.com. Coming in both portable and hard-wired configurations, they’re priced between $379 and $565. Each of our EV for sale listings features them under a “shop for chargers” tab, or can check them out via this link.
Please define “chicken stick”. Your story reads as if you were putting state-fair-food into your electrical equipment.
Wrong again – The VOLT from the very first had a choice of 8 or 12 – it just wasn’t from the touch screen in the car in the first 2 years, it was a button on their ‘charger cord’. And there was no ‘default’. Unlike later cars such as my ELR and BOLT that must be constantly changed to 12 amps on L1 (yes, I know about zip code based charging on the bolt), my 2011 VOLT would stay at the setting you left it at since it was stored in the EVSE, NOT the car.
Hey [Martin] I think you deserve some recognition for your contribution here tonight (or whatever time it is for you).
Remembers me of an incident when my mother asked me to fix the extension cord for the electric lawn mower – “please check the cable, the garden worker complained the mower does not work”. I opened the socket type end of the cable, saw a dislodged contact spring and wanted to reseat it. Then I had to feel the other end was still connected to 230VAC mains. It just did not think of thisbefore… But luckily it just stung a little. I pulled the plug and continued my work.
Actually there are checklists, especially for people working on substations and other really high voltage/high energy stuff. But if a moron decides to skip the checklist it won’t help you any. Checklist are not infallible, not even in aviation.
The first was when I was a wee, messing w/ a big 24v motor w/ weight (read: kickback voltage as it spools down && lots of amperage) and I turned it on w/ my hands on both leads…
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